Rear Wheel Drag ?

Having an issue with my rear axle/wheel assembly on my 77' KZ1000A. Installed New Brake Pads EBC FA 36 ( square ). When I install my rear axle thru the wheel/hub assembly then tightened the axle nut, I can't turn the wheel. I know I have the axle assembly and collars installed correctly. Sprocket side has the short collar, hub assembly has the distance collar inside, and disc brake side has the stepped longer collar. If I tighten the axle nut to what the FSM say to torque it down to ( 72-101 ft.lbs.) , there's no way the wheel will even turn. Plus if I have the New brake pads installed, there seems to be a lot of drag on the wheel even without tightening the axle nut very much? So I took the brake pads out and of course the wheel spins very freely but when when start to really snug up the axle nut you can watch the swing arm pinch in which causes drag on the wheel. Is there another spacer I'm supposed to have? I'm stumped on this one? I moved or compressed the pistons inside the caliper as much as possible but still seems to tight when the pads are installed and ride against the rotor?

Double check all the spacers to make sure they not only are in the correct spots but also that they are facing the correct directions. Ed

I did that Ed, I also look at my exploded diagram in my FSM,the same that you post here and what confuses me is that in the picture it shows a short coupling sleeve which is # 14 in the FSM. And a Distance collar # 19 in the middle picture? I have the Top # 14 coupling sleeve which fits inside the coupling # 13. But I don't have # 19 ? I'm wondering if that distance collar is for Bikes with Drum brakes ? Or maybe # 19 is already inside the rear hub? I have # 4 ( sprocket side ) at the top of the page behind the axle nut washer. And I have # 23 collar ( it's a stepped collar ) at the bottom of the page disc rotor side.

You need #19. Without it the collars will press the inner races of the bearings in toward the center of the hub and cause the problem you describe. That will not only make the wheel very difficult, if not impossible, to turn, it will also quickly ruin the bearings. Ed

Ed, Where the heck is # 19 located at? Is it already inside the hub? Or external of it ?

It should be inside the hub between the 2 bearings. When you look through the bearings it will probably just look like a tube connecting the 2 inner races. I am not personally familiar with the KZ1000 parts, but that's the impression I get from the diagrams and from my own experiences with my KZ650. Maybe someone else with hands-on KZ1000 experience will chime in. Ed

Ed, I'll pull the rear wheel off and look inside the hub. I can't help but think it should be in there? I'll let you know tomorrow and Thank You for answering my Post !

ED, Pulled the rear wheel assembly off the bike and looked really carefully at the axle/collar assembly.

First of all the long spacer or center tube which appears in the middle picture appears to be inside of the center drum. All 3 bearing move freely and well greased.

The coupling sleeve Part # 42036024 which appears in the upper right corner of the top picture can only go one way inside the Coupling so I know I have it right there.

The coupling collar behind the axle nut washer Part # 42032071 in the upper picture to the left is installed correct.

And lastly, the stepped collar Part # 42032070 is installed correctly on the disc brake side.

With Brake pads removed from the rear caliper, First of all the top inside left groove ( where the brake disc runs thru ) of the caliper makes contact with the inside of the brake disc? I wish I could shim the caliper to move to the left so the the brake disc is centered in the caliper groove.

But the biggest thing I still think that there still may be an issue with is when I tighten down the axle nut too much, the wheel will not turn?

Maybe I'm making too big a deal with this. But I still think it doesn't act right?

For sure if the rotor is rubbing on the caliper something is wrong, and I doubt it is the pads since it rubs with them removed . Did the wheel spin freely before you replaced the pads? Did you make any other changes, i.e. replace bearings, after you pulled the wheel? Ed

Wheel did spin freely before but the pads where really thin and worn. No I haven't changed anything after pulling the wheel. Does it appear that I have all the spacers correct in there orientation? The the rotor normally track in the center of the groove of the caliper?

Hopefully someone with a KZ1000 with rear disk will chime in. My KZ650-C1 brake is very different than the KZ1000. Mine has 1 piston behind a pad and one dead pad mounted to the caliper; the caliper moves within the caliper bracket during braking. The KZ1000 has 2 pistons (one on each side of the rotor) so the caliper remains fixed during braking. I would expect the rotor to be close to the center of the caliper slot, but it would be best for someone to describe how their KZ1000 is set up. If no one chimes in you may want to start another thread with the title "Help - KZ1000 Rear Disk Brake Problem" to get the attention of KZ1000 experts. Ed

Something is missing or installed wrong.
Remove the rear wheel. take it all apart & lay out the parts in the correct order.
Using the manual & diagrams, check to make sure everything is there. circlips. collars. spacers. etc.

EBC brake shoes on some models have been known to not fit right.
Maybe they don't make some of their brake pads right. too thick?