Fork Seals.. Has anyone tried this?

www.sealmate.net/

I'm getting my bike back to riding form. Needing to replace the fork seals, which will be a learning process. I was searching for videos and tips & tricks online. Came across this.

Any users?

LH

i would get the All Balls Seals...Top Notch

If the seals are totally shot, Seal Mate won't fix them. A set of seals cost about $12 bucks. Yes it's a hassle to change them but then you'll be in good shape for a long time.

Kapahulu wrote: If the seals are totally shot, Seal Mate won't fix them. A set of seals cost about $12 bucks. Yes it's a hassle to change them but then you'll be in good shape for a long time.

Agreed. It will be a learning experience. This bike has taught me how to change a tire, rebuild brakes, clean dirty carbs, some electrical work.... a little fork work will just add to the knowledge.

I have a question...

What special tools am I going to need? Will regular mechanic's tools work?

If you decide to tackle this remember, no sharp edges, no hammers (it's not a nail), do them one at a time. Choose your tools wisely. Loosen the caps on the forks while their still on. Remove one fork. Try to loosen the Allen at the bottom of the fork first. Put your Allen socket in and smack it with a mallet to loosen it. If it does, your half way there. Pull the bolt and let it drain. Take off the cap, it's spring loaded but not by much. Pull out the spring. Take out the Allen bolt. The fork tube should slide right out. Use a jewelers screw driver or a stiff wire/tool to go around the bottom of the dust boot to take it off. (if your careful you can reuse it).There is a snap ring holding the seal in place. Get behind it with a sharp tool and gently remove it. Now you can get under the seal. A blunt bar like a tire tool can take it out working little by little around the seal. The seal is disposable, the fork leg is not. Once out, put it back together Seal, snap ring, fork tube and dampener assy, Allen bolt as tight as can, dust boot, put on bike and tighten, fill oil to spec ,put in springs and press down on cap with a socket and short extension. The threads are fine so if won't go on easy, reverse and try again until it screws all the way in without too much resistance. Tighten the Allen.......... NEXT
Steve

The single most important tool you need is the Kawasaki Service Manual. If you don't already have one you really should get one. They normally are available on eBay; be sure to get one for your bike's exact year & model. It will give you detailed instructions, torque values, etc. on everything you need to know to work on your bike. Believe me when I say no one has ever regretted buying one. They are worth their weight in gold. Ed

Ed, I have a pdf copy on my laptop. I had a factory book years ago that I sold with another KZ I had. My pdf copy is complete too.

swest wrote: If you decide to tackle this remember, no sharp edges, no hammers (it's not a nail), do them one at a time. Choose your tools wisely. Loosen the caps on the forks while their still on. Remove one fork. Try to loosen the Allen at the bottom of the fork first. Put your Allen socket in and smack it with a mallet to loosen it. If it does, your half way there. Pull the bolt and let it drain. Take off the cap, it's spring loaded but not by much. Pull out the spring. Take out the Allen bolt. The fork tube should slide right out. Use a jewelers screw driver or a stiff wire/tool to go around the bottom of the dust boot to take it off. (if your careful you can reuse it).There is a snap ring holding the seal in place. Get behind it with a sharp tool and gently remove it. Now you can get under the seal. A blunt bar like a tire tool can take it out working little by little around the seal. The seal is disposable, the fork leg is not. Once out, put it back together Seal, snap ring, fork tube and dampener assy, Allen bolt as tight as can, dust boot, put on bike and tighten, fill oil to spec ,put in springs and press down on cap with a socket and short extension. The threads are fine so if won't go on easy, reverse and try again until it screws all the way in without too much resistance. Tighten the Allen.......... NEXT
Steve

Thank you, Steve. Why can't the manual explain it just like that! Ha!

I doubt most of them ever turned a wrench.
Steve

For a couple of dollars and five minutes of effort it certainly is worth finding out if the seals are shot or just have some grit in them. If it is grit this works really great.
regards,
Art

As above, but best to replace the copper sealing washer at the bottom, plus a length of pvc water pipe is quite handy for seating the new seals in the absence of the kawasaki special tool. Use the old seal to drive the new one home.

Finally, some pattern seals are the wrong height, despite what their application listing says.