Bearing race removal

Just got a big box of goodies from Mr Saunders...And, so, it begins! Progressive springs racetech cartidge fork emulators, all balls roller bearings, new Hagons, gears, chain...O man, I can't WAIT for Spring! I have front end off and would like some advice on how best to get the lower ball bearing race off of the triple tree...It's on there tighter than a mouse's ear! torch, dremel, arbor press? Also, are these fork legs gonna blow up on me from the spring's tension, when I take em apart? Any input, (as always!) greatly appreciated!

For the forks,...there is a lttle tension but when you take the tops off the springs will come out a couple of inches. They are under tension so be careful but should not spring out and fly all over the place. Especially if they are off of the bike and not under load.

Like JimB stated there isn't much tension on the springs when removed. I just rebuilt my forks with new OEM fork tubes and reused my Progressive springs. I want to say they only stick out about an inch or so. They are not going to come flying out as long as your forks are at full drop with no weight on them.

Have fun with all those new parts and good luck with your project.

Thanx guys, It's good to know what to expect! (Now if I can only figure out how to get this pesky bearing race off!) LOL!

For removing that old bearing race from the bottom section of the triple tree you might want to see if you can get a loaner tool similar to the one pictured below from Advance Auto, Auto Zone, or another auto parts store. Most of the big chain auto stores do loan out tools for free. I didn't know that when I replaced my steering stem bearings, so I used a small cutoff wheel in my Dremel to deeply score the old bearing race, then I used a chisel to break it. If you use a cutoff wheel go slow and be careful not to damage the stem of bottom of the tree. Ed

I have one of those bearing knife seperators (a big one) in my box here at the shop and it's a great tool to have. Used it a few times setting up rearends and pressing the bearing off of the pinion shafts.

"bearing knife separator" So THAT'S what it's called! cool!! .I will hit up auto zone after work. I've rented tools there before...With Ed's picture on my phone, and now, sbc's having given it a name, if they have one, I'll find it! AZ is only a few blocks from me, but it sounds like I could walk in with the triple tree and press it off right at the counter, be done with it! I think I'll just save my Dremel wheels for another project! Hee, Hee! Thanx again guys!

I used a cutting wheel on my and then with a small flat chisel it came off.
Good luck

Grumpy Ole Artist wrote: "bearing knife separator" So THAT'S what it's called! cool!! .I will hit up auto zone after work. I've rented tools there before...With Ed's picture on my phone, and now, sbc's having given it a name, if they have one, I'll find it! AZ is only a few blocks from me, but it sounds like I could walk in with the triple tree and press it off right at the counter, be done with it! I think I'll just save my Dremel wheels for another project! Hee, Hee! Thanx again guys!

That tool only get's it started and gets underneath the bearing. I then place it in my press here at the shop and press the bearing off when I set up car rearends. I guess you could use it on your stuff and place blocks under the bearing seperator and then use a block of hard wood with a hammer to knock you stem thru the bearing. If so I would place the nut tightened down on the stem first and then hit it with a block of wood and hammer.

sbc1320 wrote: That tool only get's it started and gets underneath the bearing. I then place it in my press here at the shop and press the bearing off when I set up car rearends. I guess you could use it on your stuff and place blocks under the bearing seperator and then use a block of hard wood with a hammer to knock you stem thru the bearing. If so I would place the nut tightened down on the stem first and then hit it with a block of wood and hammer.

I don't know about other models, but you won't need to worry about using blocks and such the KZ650 steering stem. The stem is tapered, and the taper begins just above the original bearing race, so once you move the race up a little it slips right off. Picture below shows start of taper. Ed

650ed wrote:

sbc1320 wrote: That tool only get's it started and gets underneath the bearing. I then place it in my press here at the shop and press the bearing off when I set up car rearends. I guess you could use it on your stuff and place blocks under the bearing seperator and then use a block of hard wood with a hammer to knock you stem thru the bearing. If so I would place the nut tightened down on the stem first and then hit it with a block of wood and hammer.

I don't know about other models, but you won't need to worry about using blocks and such the KZ650 steering stem. The stem is tapered, and the taper begins just above the original bearing race, so once you move the race up a little it slips right off. Picture below shows start of taper. Ed

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Gotcha, I was speaking from experience on car rearend pinion shafts. I didn't install my tapered bearings on my 1000 as it came to me already with them.

Thanx guys! Puller not available locally...can NOT find my dremel to save my skin! Tried a few love taps with 3lb fist maul and a cold chisel...worked my way around it, and tapped it right off! Thanx again all!