Frame gusset guide!

Here's what I've got filed away. I am pretty sure I scraped it off of this forum, several years ago. Figured I'd re-post it in case anyone needed it, as well as see if anyone knows where I got it from. If anyone can identify it, I'd love to get some measurements, as I'll be guessing, otherwise.

How does it look to you gents? Unless otherwise instructed, this is probably the guide that I'm going to follow.

There was a better template floating around here a while back. If i recall correctly it had all pieces that were already made to size. I would try to do a search for it.

Very cool. If I can find it, I'll post it in this thread as well.

Someone posted this on my project thread.

looks like my police bikes frame,its more than enough!

but she sure handles nice at slammin the corners not like my harley :ohmy:

check these out.

kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/294594-frame-bracing?start=20

leon

Before you do any frame bracing, make sure you put a set of cases and all the mounting bolts in place before you weld any gussets in place. I would also install a swing arm too. Stock KZ900/1000 frames will pull inward when you tighten the motor mount bolts and swingarm. I would also cut away all that worthless stock gusseting under the steering stem, and replace it with some tubular bracing. I have always used 4130 tubing and plate for all my gussets, and bracing. It miles lighter than mild steel.

Then go find yourself some Standard size Grade 8 bolts that are slightly larger in diameter than those sloppy fitting stock motor mount bolts. Then get a adjustable hand reamer and ream the stock welded in motor mounts, and engine cases so your new bolts have to be tapped in with a rubber mallet. That way you make the motor part of the frame. I would also make up some nice thick motor mount plates instead of those wimpy stock ones!!!

After removing that worthless stock under the steering stem, or as I call it, the gooseneck. This is one way you can brace that area up. Notice how the one vertical piece of tubing goes from the tubular brace where all that worthless stock gusseting was to the very top tube. This way you don't have to use all those gusset plates up there.

You really want to laugh, clamp a stock frame to a table, and put a piece of pipe into the steering stem. Then push back on the pipe, then watch the two top side frame tubes bow outward, and the top tube bow upward. Be careful where you put the three tubular braces just behind the coil mounting plates. I found out at 3.30 in the morning that I could not put my valve cover on my motor because it hit the bottom tube that was on my frame!!! It was one of them OH S**T moments. I have to remove my carbs, and slide the valve cover in from the backside of motor. I can't install the valve cover from the side of my bike like you can on a stock frame.

Thanks to trianglelaguna for posting pictures of the Superbike frame I sold a few years back. The frame you see here is the type that most of the top Kawasaki Superbike teams used in the late 70's to the end of the '82 season, unless you changed over to the "J" model bike in 1981.

Dr Gamma's are spot on for the steering head. he's not called Doctor for nothing

out of your sketch, 1,2,3, 5,6,7 ,11 are useful, the rest is wishful thinking

race a bit and youll know very fast what works and what just adds weight.

sanctuary have a pretty good sketch in their site for the bracing for their racers

tony foale's book is another good source

have a look also at my racer build thread

the one bracing that i found to make a huge difference is having a head steady brace.

that said, i've seen enough un braced frames and swingarmas in the winners circle, are you sure you can outride the stock one? would spend my money on sorted out supsension, spring rates, shocks, tires first...