wheel bearing

i used thread locker instead

i thank you for your concern you are right that i don't need to have the front wheel lock up and have to jump over the handlebars.

baldy110 wrote:

donthaveakawman wrote: i bought the sealed bearings- no need for grease, cleaned the wheel with brake cleaner

That is not what he meant by using grease. You grease the outer race so the bearing will go in a little easier. If I was you I would take the the bearings you just put in there and replace them again. The last thing you want when riding at 75mph is to have a wheel bearing lock up on you.

i am pretty sure it was the left one that was the worse of the two because when i leaned it while pushing it it would almost stop.

As I mentioned above, the factory manual instructs to use grease when installing the wheel bearings. I'm not a mechanic so I do most stuff by the book... works for me - the wheel bearings went in easy squeezy. The bearings probably need to be replaced.

From the KZ650 manual (Section 1-2, Before Servicing): (10) Press. A part installed using a press or driver, such as a wheel bearing, should first be coated with oil on its outer or inner circumference so that it will go in place smoothly.
A wheel bearing would be the outer circumference, ie the outer race.

PS: I'd be leery of taking any more advice from that person. The race that fits into the wheel is going to be a tight fit & the grease aids in the installation. Be sure to install the snap rings.

martin_csr wrote:

donthaveakawman wrote: sorry, i was instructed not to use grease.

As I mentioned above, the factory manual instructs to use grease when installing the wheel bearings. I'm not a mechanic so I do most stuff by the book... works for me - the wheel bearings went in easy squeezy. The bearings probably need to be replaced.

From the KZ650 manual (Section 1-2, Before Servicing): (10) Press. A part installed using a press or driver, such as a wheel bearing, should first be coated with oil on its outer or inner circumference so that it will go in place smoothly.
A wheel bearing would be the outer circumference, ie the outer race.

PS: I'd be leery of taking any more advice from that person. The race that fits into the wheel is going to be a tight fit & the grease aids in the installation. Be sure to install the snap rings.

+1 ! and in the future I would not use thread locker. That will make removing the bearing next time nearly impossible; that's why snap rings were invented. Ed

never mind

well if we are going by the book then it says to pound them out by the inner race to re-grease them

Best bet is if you remove a wheel bearing just replace it with new. The manual suggests "tapping" evenly around the inner race to remove them, but if they've been in there for 30+ years "tapping" is going to probably lead to "pounding." Pounding on the inner race can quickly damage them. They are not expensive considering how infrequently you would remove them, so replacing them with new should not break the bank. Using high quality sealed bearings as replacements should help stretch out their lifespan. Ed

You have to pound them out. And when you do that, they are ruined.
They're probably already ruined anyway. So get a new set & start over.

whatever, it is working much better. i noticed the old ones were bad when i was tuning up my chicken strips. i don't know if you know what skateboard bearings look like, with the rubber seals, but these new ones look like that.

chirp chirp chirp, i don't think it set in right, the other one was doing it too, until i tapped it in straight.

took the bad one out and put the old one in, why don't you hurry up and say i told you so. i probably just needed to repack the grease in the to begin with.