REAR RIM/TIRE REMOVAL FOR ' 83 SHAFTY KZ1100

So I've searched, and I've tried different word combinations, but I cannot find a thread about removing a rear rim/tire for an '83 kz1100 A3. ANYWHERE.

And for some odd reason none of the online manual/pdf files I've found have ANY of the specific '83 KZ1100 A3 info in them.

So, before I do something stupid by forcing the issue, I need some advice on how to take the damn wheel off. I finally got my tires delivered and I'm not going to drop close to $100 for the rear to be re-shoed in a shop.

rear muffler cans already off, as is the wheel nut. Would like to get this done ASAP. Also, any advice on the front wheel removal, I suppose I shouldn't just assume it's as easy as every other bike just because if I do, it won't be I mean, it's not like I havent worked on these things before, I know how it goes

DOES ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT HOW TO REMOVE THE REAR TIRE FROM A SHAFTY?

Hellllllloooooooooo?

I have looked through the 80-odd pages in the archives, and searched every combination of keywords I could think of in the recent forums, and I cannot find even a trace of information. My PDF shop manual, sourced from then numerous links here on KZR has not one shred of information on the shafty, either. Someone please help me!?!?

Okay, then...guess I'll just have to spread potentially inaccurate information about how I did it:

After perusing youtube, of all places, for potential info, I ran across a guy's vid on his suzuki shafty, showing that he removed some bolts from the front of the rear hub assembly connecting the shaft tube with the assembly.

At any rate... here's my story thus far:

I removed the left muffler pack/assembly by backing out the single collar bolt and the hangar bolt that comes off the footpeg assembly, pulling the pack straight back off the exhaust tube. This is important as the axle bolt will need room to slide out later on.

After loosening the rear brake caliper (time for new pads, BTW) and loosening the top nut on the caliper control arm, giving it some play, I loosened the axle bolt and slid it out. At this point, there is enough play in the assembly to then slide the brake caliper assembly up and off the disk. Between the caliper mounting plate and the wheel itself is a spacer that is only seated by about 1/4 inside the wheel, butting up against the internal wheel bearing on the right side.

This allowed enough movement to the right to slide the wheel over and off the spline/final drive gear that actually moves the wheel. With some gentle nudging, the wheel is then free to come out of the assembly. It's not pretty.

Heres the thing: In the vid I watched, the guy loosens the bolts on the front of the rear hub assembly, along with the caliper and axle bolt, so the whole final drive assembly slides off with the wheel, and then the you remove the final drive assembly by simply pulling it off of the hub once the whole kaboodle is free. This looks to have been much easier; however, as this isn't a suzuki, and the 4 bolts attaching the shaft tube to the rear final drive assembly were really, REALLY tight, I wasn't willing to break those loose, because I havent been able to find a damn bit of information ANYWHERE as to the actual procedure here, and there seemed to be just enough wiggle room to get the wheel off without messing around with the shaft tube and final gear assembly.

I'm kinda frustrated here, because the only reference I've been able to find anywhere on KZR is about how easy it is to remove a shaft drive rear wheel (?) and, like I said, none of the various manuals I've found links to actually contain any specific information on the '83 kz1100 A3 (again, wtf?). It appears that there are actual chapters with this information, however they were not scanned or just don't contain any actual information other than specs.

If anyone out there has this knowledge, I'd be truly greatful to hear it. I'm currently on the road, stopped over in my hometown for a bit to recharge before my next unknown leg, so I was hesitant to do this kind of work in a buddy's garage without any actual tools (had to go buy a cheapo socket set). I saved close to $100 by ordering my tires online and hopefully another $100 by taking in the tires rims off to my local shop (we'll see when I get the bill eh?) so this isn't just some desperate wrenching here, this could save A3 owners a ton of money - I was quoted $96 by a local shop for mount and balance with rims on the bike (another $50ish for the front).

So, with a little knowledge, I'll have hopefully saved enough $$$ to put in several thousand miles worth of gas, on new rubber no less. Just, you know, I had to guess at it, which isn't really the best way to go about these things if others already have this knowledge :dry:

this is why I'm up to my elbows in durty road grime and grease (I really gotta track down that stinkin oil leak) : Uhh, so,

On center-stand (locked), muffler(s) off, nut removed, knock axle bolt out far enough to lift the brake caliper support clear, and over the top side of the tire. You might want to remove the two caliper mounting bolts first, and relocate the caliper out of the way, but first pull the brake line grommets from the two clips on the swing-arm. Pull the axle out, and remove the spacer on the rotor side.
From the rear (behind fender), grab the wheel/tire nearest to you, and carefully slide it (to the right) off the differential housing. It only has to move a half inch or so to the right, before dropping off. This will disengage the gear teeth, and allow it to drop off enough to slide the wheel/tire past and under the rear fender. There isn't much clearance. You kind of have to wiggle it out.
I find it helpful to put a piece of 3/4"+ plywood on the floor before deploying the center-stand to provide added clearance at the rear when sliding the wheel/tire out (and back in). It's a little harder to flip the bike onto it, but worth the effort to avoid fighting with the tire/fender clearance.
Be cautious with above procedure, and don't force anything that might tip the bike.
Reverse order assemble.

I have a portable GPS velcro'd to the handlebar cover, which told me I'm actually going 73mph when the speedometer swears I'm only going 65, and worse the faster I go.

If you haven't already done so, it would be wise to use your key and lock the center stand in the Down position while working on the bike.
You might want to remove the drive shaft and grease the splines at the engine output gear. Maybe change the final drive oil as well. Check your wheel bearings, as this is the time to replace them.

Cool, thanks Daveo, that is pretty much what I figured out, I was just thrown off by the idea that I might need to take apart the shaft tube and the final drive assembly since that's apparently the way other bikes are done. A Kawi tech buddy also confirmed this ^ is another way to do it just a few minutes ago (they never answer the phone when I'm elbow-deep in grease...).

Things are looking a little worn back there, if I get the chance I'll add some fresh grease, I discovered the inside brake pad is worn unevenly down to the backing (!!!!) and has started to score the disk (DOUBLE!!!!) so now the search is on for A3 rear brake disk, can't seem to find that specific part over at Z1 enterprises (front disks are listed but not the rear).

If I was anything but broke I'd spend a bundle and rebuild the whole backend but I'm just trying to stay above water here...new shoes (tires) and some grease is about as much as I can do ATM