Rivet chain install

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30 May 2010 14:11 - 30 May 2010 14:12 #372132 by gte105u
Replied by gte105u on topic Rivet chain install
Ok, so I bought a new c-clamp and tried it again. It works like a charm if you go back and forth like before. I was just trying to straight muscle it on but you have to do it (fraction of an) inch by inch. After about 30 minutes here is where I am. I know I am not there yet, but how far out does it need to go past the plate before I flare?


1981 KZ550 A2
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Last edit: 30 May 2010 14:12 by gte105u.

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30 May 2010 14:38 #372137 by dejavoodo41
Replied by dejavoodo41 on topic Rivet chain install
That's the benefit of using a chain rivet tool. The anvil puts even pressure on the link so it goes on evenly. It makes it much easier. It can be done without one but it does take a fair amount of finesse.

1977 KZ1000A With 1980 KZ1000A MKII engine, Wiseco 1105 kit, Dyna S Ignition, 3 Ohm Dyna Coils, Cams, Mikuni RS34 Carbs, Vance and Hines Pro Pipe with Comp Baffle

New Smyrna Beach, FL

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30 May 2010 15:28 #372138 by gte105u
Replied by gte105u on topic Rivet chain install
Done! Once the rivets got past the plate it went fast. I used a c-clam with the open plunger. Once the rivet was past it kept the c-clamp from slipping which made it much easier to torque. Still, I was probably turning for a good 45 minutes. I turned until the spacers started feeling tight. I figured that mean the o-rings were compressed to the point where the plate were putting pressure on the spacer.

The next part was to flare the rivet. I read on another site about a DIY rivet flare tool. Take the c-clamp and open it until the plunger pops off. Then take a pipe flare tool (Home Depot- $20) head off. It has a "plunger" like the c-clamp but is pointed. Put it up against the depression in the rivet. Close the c-clamp down on the pipe flare and torque with a wrench. Makes a real nice, flat rivet.

1981 KZ550 A2

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