Gauge restoration decals

Has anyone used the gauge face restoration decal that Reprodution Decals carry? They are 24 dollars for the pair. I could not post pictures for some reason, could someone please post. This looks like a great winter project

Some info and pics in this link.

Click here> www.reproductiondecals.com/default_frame...info_instr.html~main

Then scroll down and click on Restoring Gauge Faces - Back Lit Meters.

Another alternative > www.z1enterprises.com/reference/ZResto_home.aspx

Good Luck!

Thanks for the find. I have been on their sight many times but gave never noticed those. I wil get a set to try on my GPz spedo. While reading the article, I figured with my knowledge of solvents and my supply of same, I ought to figure how to wash the face off without having to sand it. Also obviously without damaging the plastic. Low and behold I have figured it out and it makes things so much simpler. Take a look at a HALF washed gauge face.

Notice the "x1000r/min" which is molded into the plastic.

I have two gauges that need to be restored. One worse than the other.

And this one which I buggered up while rebuilding it.

This set should work perfectly.

Thanks for posting pictures of decals, some day i will be able to. What solvent did you use?

It is a blend of "Propylene-Glycol-Ether", "Butyl-Alcohol" and "Dimethyl carbinol". I can send you a small bottle if you wish. It is a water miscible solvent so you can wash everything off with soapy water at the end. I would ware latex gloves if you plan on getting it on your skin, because it will really dry your skin out. Otherwise it is relatively low in toxicity.

Great info on stripping the old faces and also nice decals.

Have you guys found a source for the band around the gauges or how to reclamp the old ones? That's the part that concerns me...

I believe that Z1E has them.

Gauge Covers Chrome Top (pair) Kawasaki
EM58-12410

I've taken apart the speedo from a 650 I had as a donor. It takes a lot of patience to pry apart the chrome bezel without damaging it too badly. It takes even more patience to re-crimp it without leaving marks. Also if you want a really flawless job it would take practice on several units. After I had re-crimped it I noticed that it was not square all the way around. Most people wouldn't even notice. I haven't seen their work, but it might be worth it to send it to Z1E for a good restoration.

Also if you want your units, speedo and tach, to be fairly accurate, I believe Z1E can calibrate them fairly closely.