Bleeding nightmare

When I have this problem, I usually take the calipers off and remove the brake pads (one at a time). Push the pistons out with the master cylinder, and then push them back in with a C-clamp (keep them lower than the master cylinder). This will usually push most of the air back up to the master cylinder. After doing this(you may have to do it more than once), they you can bleed the calipers the normal way.
When ever I bleed brakes, I usually strap the M/C lever down over night(after bleeding). This helps the remaining fine air bubbles come to the top of the lines and releases them through the master cylinder the next morning when the M/C is released.
Fish

Cheers Fish and wireman, I will try that today.

del

OnkelB brake bleed

I really like all the ideas but the one I tried today was JMKZHI's idea of the reverse passive bleed - or the RPB as I like to think of it. It seems a solid theory that required very little effort from my right hand which seemed a good idea since the previous 8hrs of bleeding is beginning to cause a repeditive strain injury.
Connected up a funnel, clear hose and fluid and went about performing 2.5hrs of bleeding. I tapped away as suggested in other posts and tried to be as patient as I could. I removed and rotated calipers and thought I might just've got her sorted until I squeezed the pedal.
There is some pedal there but not a lot. It must be saturated in air and I am starting to dispair but not yet ready to quit. I will try the reverse passive flush again tomorrow and try to leech out some more air.
Will advise.
Standby 1...

WTF, hang in there, stay cool, you will get it done.

WTF, here´s a tip I got from a pro wrench: try bleeding at all connections starting with the mc - preferably with the system off the bike kinda like in the link Gas posted, so you don´t spill brake fluid all over. Keep a rag handy so you can wipe off any spill immediately.

Make sure there´s plenty of fluid in the mc reservoir (recheck the level throughout the process and top up if the level sinks), then loosen the banjo bolt on the mc and squeeze the lever until fluid comes out. Retighten the banjo bolt and move on to the splitter - loosen the banjo bolt on the input side and squeeze the lever until fluid comes out, retighten and repeat the procedure for the output side, then for the caliper input banjo bolts.

This should get rid of most of the air trapped in the mc, hoses and splitter - finally bleed the calipers using the bleeder nipples (these should be tight throughout the process].


Btchalice, MBD = multiple bike disorder. KZCSI is not the worst case I have seen, but he´s up there, he has a pretty neat collection.

del

Have you tried a very very large syringe or even a turkey baster to suck fluid through lines? Is your master cylinder in good shape? A hose in a glass jar might work. Or you just pump and pump and pump. A buddy to help? He pumps and holds lever in while you give slight turn to bleed air. My hydraulic clutch on my 95 GPZ to hours to bleed.

WTF! This comes up regularly when folks bleed what had been a dry system. I have tried all sorts of gizmos and tricks. You really don't need to. Here is what you do... Fill the master cylinder. Remove the bleed valves completely till and keep topping the master cylinder and trust me, fluid will start pouring out. Then, get the bleed valves back in before the master cylinder starts pulling air. Once you have done this, the brakes will bleed right with little air in the lines. I seem to do about 3-5 sets of dry brakes a year and this always works. I also use Russel Speed Bleeders (7mm / short). This allows you to open the bleed valve and you don't have to shut it again as it has a check valve. You just pump and add fluid. When done, you just shut the valves. Denniskirk.com

George,
do you remove the speed bleeders as well on this/
I am using them for the first time....
Thanks!
K

I bought a 'Draper'bleed kit (just a hose with a sort of anti-air-return system, you could make one for about 5 euros, it costs about 12 euros or so I guess) and it takes me 5 minutes to bleed the front calipers on the 650, never had bother since.

I always put a dot of paint (with a small paint pen) on the bleed valve so that I re tighten it to exactly the same place, don't kill the threads that way by overtightening.

That's my 20 centimes worth.