Replacing top fork plug

Anybody got and tips on getting the top plug back on? There's about three inches of spring extending above the fork top. I know I can get it with enough sweating and swearing, but if anybody knows a trick for it I'd appreciate it.

Bike is a 1980 KZ1000-E2 (shaft), and yes, I have it jacked up off the front wheel.

If you've got the front end raised to take the load off the forks, it should go back in. Are you doing one leg at a time or trying to do both?

I have them both open now. The front wheel is definitely off the floor. Both plugs popped out under spring pressure when I got them unscrewed all the way.

There are perhaps superior methods, but here's what works for me.

I use a socket with 6" extension in a 1/2" ratchet.

Wear leather gloves and push down with head of ratchet inside my right hand palm while keeping things aligned with my left hand.

Simultaneously push down and twist until the threads begin a perfect mesh. Proceed very carefully and slowly, being sure the threading starts perfectly, and take great pains not to cross thread.

It's usually easy to tell when the cap is just perfectly started threading into the fork tube.
From there, it's easy to continue screwing the cap on in.

These are ultra-fine delicate soft aluminum male threads on the cap, and very easily damaged. Should exercise extreme care to prevent cross-threading when initially engaging the fork tube threads.

And of course, no Locktite of any kind. But a dab of anti-sieze would be okay.

Tip -- after filling fork with correct volume of fork oil, with front wheel suspended and spring inside the fork, take a thin wood dowel and fashion a "dip stick" marking the distance between top of fork tube and level of oil. Keep the dowel dip-stick in the tool box for next time to avoid having to fool with a measuring cup, baby bottle, or whatever.

Good Luck!

Thanks for the quick replies! Sounds like there's no magic bullet, just perseverance and caution.

I did the dipstick thing. Surprisingly, the same volume of oil produced very different levels. There was a 2" difference. Any idea why that would be?

MadPhil wrote:

...did the dipstick thing. Surprisingly, the same volume of oil produced very different levels. There was a 2" difference. Any idea why that would be?

Would guess incomplete drainage of old oil before replenishing with measured amount per specs.

Some FSM provide both "dry" and "wet" volumes of new oil, depending on whether forks were completely dry (such as freshly rebuilt) or simply drained (where some old oil residue remains inside).

My method is to remove drain screws, wrap rags around the open drain holes, and then pump the forks until the oil is ejected from both forks. Afterwards, loosen fork caps and allow to gravity drain.

Good Luck!