BRAKE EXPERTS!..put new pads on rear - now cant get it to pump up!

Allright, I put new pads on the rear of my 78KZ650SR, intstalled everything the way it was supposed to be, then when I went to bleed the system....no pressure at all! There are no leaks anywhere, but there is also no pressure!
I'm pretty sure I am bleeding it right;
I put clear plastic tube on top of bleeder valve,then submerged the other end under fluid, pumped peddle several times fast, then open bleeder valve 1 turn while holding peddle down, then close valve and repeat procedure until air is gone - does this sound right?

Problem is I never get ANY pressure built up in peddle - or see air bubbles in tube for that matter.
Is there a way to see if the mastercyclinder is working okay?
What about caliper function?
They were working fine before, just pads worn down to bare metal.
Help!

First of all don't pump fast! You can take one or two air bubbles and create 20-30 ones. Pump slow and delibrate. There is another way of bleeding that also works well. Crack open bleeder and then slowely squeeze lever, closing bleeder when lever is compressed. Plus, I've installed hundreds of brake pads and unless you "open" the system there should be no bleeding required. I've never done the hose in the fluid thing but aren't you supposed to leave the bleeder cracked open as you slowely compress the lever until there are no more air bubbles? The idea being that when you release the lever, only fluid will be drawn up into the caliper instaead of air? Let us know...

inside piston seems stuck - guess that means a rebuild? Not sur what the hell I'm doin' but I'll give Z1 Ent.a shout and dig right in.....................
seriously, dont try to stop me..........................I'll pop that sucker right open.........................I'll do it..........you cant talk me out of it.......................


Okay, I'll wait a few days for a response, maybe there's a trick for getting the piston unstuck?.........
anybody........

Even with a stuck piston you would still build pressure.

If both rear pads were worn equally, then the piston isn't stuck.

If you are getting a steady stream of fluid with no bubbles out of the bleeder screw, and you still have no pressure, then the master cylinder is bypassing fluid internally.

That means it's time to rebuild the master cylinder.

This is kind of an old post, but thought this might help someone. I just rebuilt the front caliper on my 1200 Honda Goldwing and ran into this exact problem. The brakes were working fine, but the caliper was leaking. So I buy all the parts needed, replace them in the caliper, reassemble, put new brake fluid in, pump the lever 10 times, hold it, open the valve. I did this for 20 minutes or so=nothing. Next pump 100 times, then open the valve. I did this for 20 minutes=nothing. Next I try pumping 500 times=nothing, then try leaving the valve open and pumping for 20 more minutes=nothing. After all this the fluid was still the same exact level as where I'd started. Time for something different. So I get a clean 3/16 clear hose, run it from the bleeder nipple to my mouth, pump the lever a couple times, hold it, open the valve and suck. Immediately brake fluid was drawn into the tube along with massive air. Repeat this a couple times and I'm done. Had the brakes all done whithin 2 minutes after over an hour doing the conventional way aimlessly. Of course brake fluid is probably poison, so be careful, but it worked like a charm.

Yep, when a "pump" has swallowed air, you have to prime it or you can pump until the cows come home and it won't do anything. Used to have the same problem with my pool's recirculation pump.