Dyna 2000 electronic ignition on a Gpz1100?

Has anyone ever put a Dyna 2000 electronic ignition on a Gpz1100 (1982) or similar bike that already has a factory electronic ignition? I’m considering it as I recently put in a 74mm big bore kit and I get some slight pinging. I’ve tried colder plugs, the famous 'coil mod' and high octane gas, but it won’t completely go away. If I go this route, I’d like it to get rid of the pinging, plus give me a noticeable performance increase. It would cost about $400 w/coils, so if I do this, I’d like to know that I’m getting ‘bang for my buck’.

Howard
You should not get pinging with even the oryginal ignition. I would suspect something els. I would recheck your cam timing. Also you can try opening your plug gap to .05" or .06" presumeing you are running performance coils. If you are runing stock coils you may get spark blowout at about 8500rpm. I am not sure what you are refering to when you say "famous coil mod"

Otto K.

What are compression readings?

My compression is between 135 & 150, so it's in the normal range. I'm using stock coils. The spark plug gap spec is 0.7-0.8mm and I had it at about 0.76 and now it's closer to 0.72. The bike rides very well and I'm getting 45 mpg. If I'm on the freeway and accelerate from say 70mph to 80, I'll hear a bit of ping. The valve and cam timing is 'spot on' and has been rechecked. The 'famous coil mod' is where you bypass the coil hot wiring and connect it straight to the battery via an automotive relay.

Post edited by: howard95132, at: 2007/10/29 15:55

Some of the guys on my site have fitted Dyna 2000s to their 750 turbos, which have a similar ignition system to your 1100.

You might find that running one of the dyna curves with a bit more advance gets rid of the ping due to firing at lower cylinder pressure. It's a trick the turbo boys use sometimes when the ignition is a bit weak

Some Dyna coils wouldn't hurt either.

Also make sure the advancer springs aren't worn or stretched. There should be a spec for the RPM at which advance is all-in. You'll need a very accurate diagnostic tach to check it, along with a timing light. (less than $100 for both).

Also the timing in general needs to be checked with a timing light. The timing light will also show if you are getting errant spark triggers. It'll show up as a "ghost image" of the advancer in the wrong position when you do the timing.

Lastly, make sure the little rubber stops are in place on the advance arms. If they fall off, you end up with more total advance than you should have. They are tiny and just look like bits of dirt in the timing cover when they fall off.

I'll see if I can dig up some photos.


Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/10/29 20:32

Try to jet the carbs about two sizes larger. This will make the cylinders run cooler and just might do the trick. You mentioned that it is the worst during higher end acceleration. This is idicative of a lean condition. The advance on the bike should be at full at about 3K RPM. A low end ping would indicate a stuck advancer. If the advancer is stuck in low art high revs you would get less ping and would loose a sgnificant ammount of power. Advancing a motor which pings even farther could take the head right off the motor.

Otto Kudrna

U could retard the timing a degree to see if it helps.or go the other way as Lorcan suggests. it does seam odd that u are getting a ping with those compression #'s.i would not run out and buy a dyna 2000 until u did some more tests. it sounds like timing and lean symptoms.i have a Dyna 2000 and the recomended spark gap is .028".i have 150psi and run the timing at 29* and no ping.how is the color on your spark plugs?

Post edited by: mark1122, at: 2007/10/29 21:58

The spark color is nice and light brown. If anything lean, but certainly not rich. Personally, the color looks perfect to me. Also, this bike has EFI so no jetting options. I took out the advancer and lubricated it. I didn't notice the rubber stops (but I wasn't loking for them) but since the lubrication, the advance is very noticeable at higher speeds. The engine revs noticeably higher when I accelerate on the HW. I don't see how I can change the timing unless I widen the holes in the ignition timing plate so I can rotate it some. I'd rather not do that as that seems like a 'hinky' way to do it. I should check the timing with timing light. That would be easy enough to do.

If you still have the stock EFI system on it it will be too lean for sure, and a lean mix will cause pinging. The EFI does not know that you have a big bore kit in there. You can fit bigger injectors (750 turbo ones are bigger and will fit) or an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to compensate. Let me know what the new capacity is and I can work out what fuel pressure to run.

I see. Now we're getting somewhere. Stock is 1089 cc with 72.5mm pistons. The big-bore kit is 1136 cc with 74mm pistons. So it's not timing, but lean mixture? This is starting to make sense as my mileage is very good at 45mpg and the plugs are certainly dry and light brown.

Post edited by: howard95132, at: 2007/10/30 13:05

It's more likely to be the mixture than the timing. The GPz11s are lean from the factory anyway, even an aftermarket pipe is enough to make them cough and splutter. The answer is to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (SARD ones are good) and set it to 40-42psi. Technically 39psi should be enough for your big bore, but I bet you have a pipe on there too so you will need to experiment, the same way you would change jets on a carbed bike.