How to put on a chain?

I have replaced my sprockets and now am doing the chain. It's longer than I need so I am going to break it. Here's my question - how do I know how long to make it?

I have put the wheel forward to the first adjuster line, and have both sides lined up on the axle adjuster line. Is it ok to cut the chain if it lines up at this line or do I have to make it line up in the middle of the adjusters?

thanks

Suggestion, If the swingarm and sprockets are stock why not just make the chain the same number of links as a new stock chain? This info should be available in parts diagram. Ed

Ed, I am doing a 630 to 530 conversion so the chain has more links. Z1Enterprises sells the chain in standard lengths then I have to cut it to fit.

I thought the links were the same size on the chains, the difference being how wide the chain is

The 630 chain has a 3/4" pitch while the 530 has a 5/8" pitch. I cut and rivetted my chain with the wheel on the forward part of the adjuster.

BSKZ650 wrote:

I thought the links were the same size on the chains, the difference being how wide the chain is

No, the way chain is sized is called the "rule of eights". This first digit is the pitch of the chain in 1/8" increments. So a 530 chain is 5/8" pitch or .625", and a 630 chain is 6/8" pitch or .75" pitch. So going by this if you had for example a 92 link 630 chain this would put the length at 69", you'd need about 110 links of 530 to be the same length chain.
The second and third number of the chain is the roller width and they are combined with a decimal point using the same rule of eights so a 530 chain is 3.0/8" wide or .375" and a 630 would be the same. A 520 chain would be 2.0/8" or .25" wide, a 525 2.5/8" or .3125".
I read this so hopefully it is correct.
Hope this helps.

Here's how I measure my chains. Install the sprockets (obviously) and move the axle as far forward as it can go. Run the chain around the front sprocket and back around the rear sprocket. Somewhere, I prefer between the 12-3 o'clock position, on the rear sprocket should be the "beginning' of the chain. Run the "end" of the chain, with as little slack as possible, around the rear sprocket. There will be overlap where the "beginning" and the "tail" of the chain overlap. Cut your chain so that the master link lines up.

I made a quick diagram. Sorry it sucks but its hard to explain this stuff using "paint".

Later, Doug

Here's how I measure my chains. Install the sprockets (obviously) and move the axle as far forward as it can go. Run the chain around the front sprocket and back around the rear sprocket. Somewhere, I prefer between the 12-3 o'clock position, on the rear sprocket should be the "beginning' of the chain. Run the "end" of the chain, with as little slack as possible, around the rear sprocket. There will be overlap where the "beginning" and the "tail" of the chain overlap. Cut your chain so that the master link lines up.

I made a quick diagram. Sorry it sucks but its hard to explain this stuff using "paint".

Later, Doug

Post edited by: StreetfighterKz, at: 2007/08/02 12:19

Stupid pics!

Post edited by: StreetfighterKz, at: 2007/08/02 12:44

Going by my previous explanation of the physical difference between a 530 and a 630 chain I personnally don't see any real reason to switch. Both are .375" wide rollers. The difference is the pitch. How exactly does a chain with 110 shorter links vs a chain with 92 longer links, both being the same width create any advantage??
Does the 630 use heavier wider steel plates or something along that line? I know 530 is cheaper and more widely available. These are the only things that come to mind.

Nice diagram streetfighter, that's how I'm doing it. I'll grind the ends off the side plate rivets and pop off the side plate to shorten the chain.

As for the virtues (if any) of going with a 530 versus 630 chain, I chose to go 530 after reading the write-up on the Z1Enterprises web site

www.z1enterprises.com/reference/chain630to530.aspx

i've got the chain on the bike and need to put on the master link. It's the kind with the rivet thing on it. I have a tool I borrowed to cut the chain, but it does not rivet. My buddy said to put a nickel behind it to prevent it from pushing the pin out and let the tool crush the rivet part into shape.

This sounds crazy to me, what do you recommend? I see a riveter tool for $99 online... I was thinking maybe put a BB in the chain tool and let it flare out the end of the chain link.

Are there any lower priced tools?