Help, need fork seal info...

I just took my 440d apart, and notices it had Sh.owa air forks on it. I have two questions.

1. Are these factory forks of were they put on aftermarket.

2. Where can I get 33MM seals for these, as the Kawasaki part for an 83 440 LTD (also 33MM) is not correct.

Figures I take the bike apart and the weather get nice...

What is different with the kawasaski part no?
Z1 carries K&L 33mm seals.
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1894

Thank you, Z1 has the correct part. The Kawasaki AND the leak-proof parts had the correect ID and OD but the wrong Hieght. The seals Z1 has are 11MM tall wich is correct.

Sweet mabey I can get them by Saturday.

If then, hopefully by Monday.
I know when I order my stuff, it usually get here in 2 days.
YMMV

So then how do I refill these forks with oil? Do I have to dissasemble the inner tube too? I removed the inner tube from the lower tube, but the inner tube is still assembled. OR do you fill these before you reassemble?

I'm not sure how it is on your 440.
But on my 650's, there is a drain screw at the bottom of the fork to let out old fluid, and you have to unscrew the top of the fork cap to put in new oil.
Do you have a manual?

Yes I have a Clymers manual, but it does not show an air fork for the the bike at all, it does for the EN500 but they are different tubes. These tubes came a part by removing the lower allen bolt, there is a drain screw as well. There was a Showa decal on one of them but it is fadded and I can't read the specs. There is no clip on the top of the inner tube, so I don't know how to take it apart to remove the spring and refill the tube.

Does the factory manual show the right exploded diagram?

Post edited by: Tyler, at: 2007/05/18 09:40

With the forks off the bike and on a workbench, you will see a allen screw inside the cup that goes over the front axle on the bottom of the tube. Take out that allen screw and the forks will come apart , some tubes need a special tool to hold the inner parts from turning. I made my own special tool out of a nut and rebar. I had the nut welded to the rebar,its only about $10.00 as to buying a $50.00 tool. Clean the forks of all old oil and reassemble with the new seals. Unscrew the top caps of the upper fork tubes and refill with the correct amount of oil after the forks are reinstalled on the bike with the front of the bike or wheel off the ground. You don't want the forks to have any weight on them from being on the ground or the front of the bike on the ground,tubes should be fully extended. Remember to use fork oil or a very light motor oil such as a 10w20 or a straight 15w or 20w oil. Hope this helps you out. Wayne

Post edited by: Tower_Monkey1, at: 2007/05/18 10:34

del

Ahh perhas the shrader valve can be unscrewed and oil added through there? Like I said ther is no clip or anything on the top of the inner tube.

I will take some pics when I get home to clarify things.

Again, how do I know how much oil to add, it there a rule of thumb I can use?

del

The plug in the uppper tube is threaded then? Is there a tool required? The upper tube/valve/spring assembly has to come apart somehow. I haven't had time too look since Wednesday, so this afternoon I will get a better look again and post some pics.

Here is someones sketch of the parts

It shows a clip on the cap that I don't have, instead of a fill plug I just have a shrader valve screwed into the cap, so mabey that is how you are supposed to fill these. The lower tube he has drawn is identical to mine.

Post edited by: Tyler, at: 2007/05/19 12:38