78 KZ 650 start trouble

Hi, I recently bought a 1978 KZ 650, and here's the first problem: it won't start on its own. Hook it up to a car battery and it jumps to life, no problems. I replaced the battery, and still nothing. I have barely been able to kick start it, only after much ado. I don't have my manual yet, and I'm not sure how to start trouble shooting.

With the new battery, I turn the key to ignition, and a little life comes to the lights and horn, but not much, and nothing from the electric starter. But jump it off a car, and she rips.

I would appreciate any help. I have only started at this, and I know only the very basics.

Thanks

I am no expert compared to others here, but if a jump gives you good jiuce, but a new, fully charged battery does not, I would suspect the connection of the cables at the battery - are they clean? making good contact? Take em off, clean em up with a wire brush or sandpaper. Make sure the battery has a good charge.

I have read here also that one should never jump start a motorcycle from a car - I dont know *why*, but I read it here more than once.

I have read here also that one should never jump start a motorcycle from a car - I dont know *why*, but I read it here more than once.

The actual quote is "Don't jump start your bike from a "Running" car, not running car is ok.

I also just read that you shouldn't start it from a running car...lesson learned. I will try to clean up the connections, and see if that helps. It seems tomake sense...there must be soem kind of resistance somewhere. Thanks for your help, I'll let you know.

The actual quote is "Don't jump start your bike from a "Running" car, not running car is ok.

Why is that? Too many amps?

Don't know why, but heres the lates: tried to jump it this morning, and wires started smoking. Upon closer inspection, alot of the wires are shaky at best, and the connections awful. It looks like someone tried messing with the wiring, poorly. I'm off to start the arduous task of replacing it all.


...I just found out that the ignition unit is for a kz1000...is ok to use this for a kz650???

Post edited by: cmrhodes101, at: 2006/09/30 16:01

...I just found out that the ignition unit is for a kz1000...is ok to use this for a kz650???

Are you refering to the Ign. switch or the actual Ignition? As in points or electronic Ign?

As long as either is wired up correctly, there should be no trouble. I had an electronic Ign. from a '79 KZ1000 set up on my 650 for a while until the IC Igniter went on me.

Its the little black box that has wires leading from it to the ignition coils, starter motor, ignition switch, and neg. batt term. Im still in the process of replacing all the wires and connections that look fried. Im assuming it was wired correctly previously, because it used to start off a car battery, so I am not changing anything, just replacing.

thanks for the reply, ill keep posting as I go.

Post edited by: cmrhodes101, at: 2006/09/30 21:53

It's the little black box that has wires leading from it to the ignition coils, starter motor, ignition switch, and neg. batt term.

That little black box sounds like a wiring mod we call the "WG Coil Wiring mod". Is it a small box with 4 or 5 connections labeled with #s 36, 85, 86 & 87 like the diagram below?

This is a wiring mod to give the coils a straight shot of 12volts from the battery. Here's a link: Details for Coil Powering - Direct From Battery .


Over all, it does seem like you need to go over all the wiring and check and clean connections, lubing them with Dielectric Grease as well.

Post edited by: rstnick, at: 2006/10/01 22:06

I think it's called the CDI.

Anyways, I've replaced a buch of wiring and now all my signal lights work correctly, but now the electric ignition doesn't work at all. Nothing happens when I push the button. I can kick start it when I hook it up to a car battery, but as soon as I remove the cables, it dies. I will be looking into the starter/generator as well as the ignition switch itself today....

EsaPro wrote:

The actual quote is "Don't jump start your bike from a "Running" car, not running car is ok.

Why is that? Too many amps?

The running car has a regulator and is trying to keep the voltage at a certain level. The bike has a regulator and is trying to keep the voltage at a certain level, also. If the 2 regulators don't agree on what the level should be, they duke it out. Guess which one wins?

My 93 toyota truck won....