Start/stop switch w/ anti rotation pin

Got a 1982 KZ1000 LTD with what appears to be the original start/stop switch housing. It has the anti-rotation pin that fits into the hole in the handlebar. The location of that hole on my aftermarket bars was causing the throttle to sit about 2 cm off the end of the bar and it wouldn’t slide on all the way.

So like a bonehead I ground the pin down instead of drilling a new locating hole in the bar like I should have done. I tried a beer can shim and thin rubber shims, but it’s too loose for comfort. Wasn’t thinking this one through. The throttle now sits where it should, but the housing still feels loose and sketchy, even with shims. I def regret doing this.Has anyone successfully run one of these without the anti-rotation pin, or is that pin pretty much mandatory? Can that locating plate/pin be replaced by itself, or am I looking at replacing the entire switch assembly now? I’m trying to decide whether to fix it properly back to original with the pin or if there’s a safe way to shim it and make it work. Any advice is much appreciated and thank you in advance!  

I just did a bar swap on a 440 LTD and ran into the same issue (forgot about needing the locating pin hole)

I used a pair of pliers to pull the pin out of the housing and it's been fine.

I had a similar issue with the switch housing on my project (broken pin) I managed to carefully file it flat then drilled it and inserted a 2mm "roll pin"

To build on Wookie's suggestion, a very small self-tapping machine screw that has a head slightly smaller than the hole could work.

   Suggest the needed the hole drilled in the switchblock be juuust the right size for the shank, maybe ever so slightly larger than what would otherwise be drilled, so the spreading force of the screw doesn't crack the soft metal of the switchblock as it's turned in.  The screw doesn't have to hold anything down; it only has to resist mild side forces.  A drop of blue thread locker to secure.   Try test hole(s) in scrap to find the best gentle fit in the hole.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Thanks guys I’m less sketched out now after my morning commute. It did fine, but I’m still going to try find a better more permanent fix. I have a thin piece of bicycle tube under it now. It’s holding but I could see it rotating if I roll off the throttle hard in an emergency braking type situation. So going to be mindful that. Gonna try to find an original switch that I can take the plate out of with the pin, or just replace the switch entirely, IF I can find a match. Rather get it set back up as it was so let me know if anyone happens have a switch that would work. I’ll buy. I know that’s prob a long shot. Anyway, thanks again!

Yeah, it's totally a long shot that someone around here would have spare parts  

Or, just for added silliness, I should still have the pin from the 440 and will send it to you for free - not even postage - if you like

Haha and wow that would be awesome!! Very cool. Thanks for looking out! Sending my info now. Appreciate ya and I’ll play that forward 

Back on the 70's I had pull backs so I used a piece of this and still am. 

I've wrapped the bars with electrical tape, to get switches to fit tighter.
If your using a piece of inner tube, and it's still loose, it sounds like your bars are very thin.
Should be 7/8" handle bars.

wrote:

... an original switch that I can take the plate out of with the pin ...

   Re: our earlier answer above;  we had envisioned an old-style switchblock that has the pin cast into it.  Unfamiliar with a 'plate' with integral pin that is removable from the switchblock.

  Tunnel vision for model-specific older bikes has its disadvantages.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

CB82 wrote:

Haha and wow that would be awesome!! Very cool. Thanks for looking out! Sending my info now. Appreciate ya and I’ll play that forward 


 

Dude, I am so sorry: I cannot find the pin  It wasn't on the bench where I thought it would be, and an extensive search failed

I had a couple of spare switch units, but one already had the pin broken off and I broke the other one trying to remove it  Again, I'm really sorry