wiring harness connections - 1975 Z1-B 900

Bob1975 wrote:

Fantastic! 
I think it's wise to upgrade the wiring harness and  connectors. Agree
Is there any advantage to keeping the points? There is nothing wrong with "points" but no there is no advantage. Points require regular maintenance whereas electronic ignition once fitted is pretty much maintenance free

The person who used to work on the bike went out of business. On the face of it (from an electrical point of view at least) that's unsurprising 
Thanks.
~Bob

May we suggest resolving one issue at a time?

   Before you make it go, make sure it'll stop, aka brakes.
   Then, just make it go 'vroom'.  If it was running on points last time it ran keep them for now.  Adding aftermarket ignition before it runs adds unknowns to an already-problematic electrical situation.
      Once running, confirm charging system & good battery.  Ditch the problematic glass fuse / fuse holder with a quality, modern blade fuse.  The OEM  20A glass fuses run quite hot, and were always on the ragged edge of failing, particularly at the solder joints on Mama Kaw's OEM fuse end caps.    We have a small collection of those OEM white plastic, glass-tube fuse holders discolored & misshapen from heat.  The new blade holder can be pigtailed in with OEM-style 5mm barrel connectors for PnP connection, so the two existing WHITE wire connectors on the existing harness don't have to be butchered. 
   Then comes lighting.
   When the electrics are sound, then tinker with aftermarket ignition / whatever to your hearts content.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Thank you. Your comments make sense and are very appreciated.

~Bob.

Lots of good info here, all for our benefit, 
As slmjm,said ya gotta stop, if you can’t rebuild, reproduction is out there, check out z1 enterprises, z1 parts, or niche or ebay(be careful there), there is an entire reproduction industry for these models, I was very surprised when I put mine back on road about 7 yrs ago, 
Wiring, probably should get 4 harnesses, Main, rear lighting, front instrument, and the junction block, yours are probably too far gone, that thing bolted up to the coil area with the cardboard shims looks like a replacement combo regulator, good place for too much heat, should be under battery, that’s why white plug is empty, original rectifier/diode from charging system, your old shop mcgyvered a few things!!!  if you get a new harness, leave old in place and lay new next to it, match up connections and plugs, good luck 

You might want get new ignition coils too!

A suggestion if you don't mind. While "reproduction/aftermarket" is a quick resolve, a lot of stuff from that bargain bin of replacements destroys originality. Case in point regarding, pictures included, the RH handlebar switch. 1975 was a transitionary year for the Z1. First year for the switch halves to be of the "locking type" and a unique only to the 75 the Yellow feature of "engine stop" font was on the bottom, not the top like all that followed for the KZ's. But still retaining the early ON/OFF/ON knob with red plastic stripe. KZ's started in 1976 used a different knob because the housing was different and the thumb activation was perpendicular to handlebars. LH switch horn button was of a rocker knurled bar type instead of a button, basically a KZ900. Look at bargain replacements, they don't resemble the originals at all. And that is just a sampling start. If buying a replacement MAIN harness, look for sheathing that covers the wiring from underneath tank to headlight bucket. A lot of them are just taped not covered with a PVC type cover. As jwfels mentioned, a whole industry erupted decades ago focusing on the Z1. Some better then others, have a KEEN eye if going that route! I'll get off my rivet counting High Horse now, ha.     

Asphalt is trying to infect you with the dreaded "restoration" disease.  It's extremely painful on your wallet.  There is no known cure, so be careful!

Just fulfilling the "resident" NuT position" Hardrock. Those Prince Albert and coffee cans buried in the yard are just going to rust away so excavation would be imminent anyway, ha. Believe me, as these machines get even older, persons in a position to purchase WILL be keen on these details! Just a matter of time...

hardrockminer wrote:

Asphalt is trying to infect you with the dreaded "restoration" disease.  It's extremely painful on your wallet.  There is no known cure, so be careful!

It only started as a "my bike won't start !!!!!" 

I know,I know Wookie, i can sometimes get carried away, ha. But actually everything mentioned does directly pertain to a "no-fire in the hole" scenario. Reason for giving a glimpse of that RH switchblock and pics of wiring bits. Don't throw parts at something just because you can, reasoning and measuring goes a long way for success. But YOU already know that, You wrote the book on it Wookie, the fellas not familiar with this stuff truly Appreciate your efforts and time dedicated to such things!!! I just..take it a step further and show actual similar/dissimilar Photo ID's of the stuff.       

Hi Bob, solving your wiring problem really depends on what you want to do with the bike now and long term. I assume that because you have kept it this long that you will want to keep it as “original “ as possible, in which case then the awesome people on this site will be able to help. If you just want to get it running and not overly bothered about original then again the awesome people on this site can help you. 
I have gone for as original as possible with my KZ650b1, and have had amazing help from everyone here.
 I will look forward to your progress.
Rich.