I think we are talking about different tests. The test I've done is without a fuse, and the voltage reading indicates that the output of the fuse is grounded somewhere in the circuit. Agreed
But disconnecting the regulator the voltage disappears. The wiring is fine. The motorcycle does not blow the fuse when cold with the ignition on. If your RR is electronic is it the OE or aftermarket combined unit which normally has 5 wires (none of which are connected to the Ignition circuit )- How have you wired it ????
It is the typical bastard failure that appears only when the bike warms up. It may not be temperature related, a partial short will take a little time to overload the fuse
So I only have two options:
- check the output voltage to see if it is getting too high and that blows the fuse (I'm going to look at it now)
- Short that appears when hot or when some part of the wiring is moved with normal use of the motorcycle. Probably headlight area or other moving areas.
Voltage doesn't blow fuses, current does. If I have time later I will put you a "test plan" together
www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/V_regsEM.html. I have the VR3-KZ regulator that connects exactly the same as the original. I have measured the output voltage with the engine running and it remains completely stable at 14.5V, in any RPM range.
The short circuit does not appear at cold, I wiggled the wiring but the voltage did not appear. I have to shake it even more.
I find it interesting that a partial short will take a while to overload the fuse, I hadn't thought of it that way. But it seems difficult to find the point of short in those circumstances.
The fact that the voltage does not blow the fuses, the current does, I thought so. It's a matter of amperage, the fuses support 250v or even more.