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I will do the bench test tonight, one question I have is where do I put the button? I realize it’s not necessary but I have one so I might as well add it. Another question, the 1/4” gap between the 2 outgoing wires where I check for spark, those are between where the plug wires would go correct? Like where the plug wires would connect is where I add the wires with 1/4” gap?

The diagram shows where to put the momentary buttons.  Each button feeds a G terminal.  But you can just touch the wire to the G terminal momentarily instead.  The diagram is pretty clear on where to put the buttons.  Are you sure you are looking at the correct diagram?  I've posted two different ones so far.  I will repost both here.

I'm not sure what type of coils you have.  The diagram shows the type of coil that uses tower standoffs for the wires to attach to.  If the coil has plug wires built-in you just put a screw or bolt into the plug wires and tie them close together with a rubber band or something.  Or you can just put a plug in each wire and tie the plug bodies together so they are touching.  There are many ways to do it.  You just have to make sure the high tension side of the coil has a continuous path for current to flow from one plug wire to the other with a maximum gap of about 1/4".  Start out with a smaller gap first just to make sure you can see a spark.

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Alright gents, the hei modules have been bench tested and coils  are good and igniter is good. I actually got spark across the plugs. Super great news, I needed this news. 

Side note, in case anyone was curious, the wells from rock auto was the first test, I replaced that with the duralast and they also worked. The spark seemed to arrive to the plug faster but that could very well be my own mind after working 9 hours. Take it with a grain of salt, just know it worked. 

Just to be on the safe side, I rebuilt the harness for the igniter replacement, made sure everything had continuity, the resistance from the 1k ohm resistor was perfect, the diodes operated perfectly, were Facing the right direction, continuity on all of the wires and crimp terminals were perfect. So I can confirm that is good. I measured the resistance between the igniter to coil harness with the red, green, black wires and such and it all had continuity. So that only leaves my pickup coils. And since those ohmed out nicely at 460ohms for both of them, the only thing I can think of is the magnets inside them have been put in wrong. 

Alright. Finally something sparking!

That bench test just shows the coils and modules are functional, but it doesn't necessarily mean the HEI modules will work with the pickups to run the ignition properly.  For that we are relying on the 9v battery test and the 1.25v reading on the W terminal.  The 2.73v modules may still work, but we still can[t say for sure yet.

If you read the notes on the bench test diagram it explains you might see a delay in the firing.  That is normal, and won't happen during usage on the bike.

A similar bench test can be done with the original igniter, using switches instead of the pickups.  I haven't drawn a diagram for that yet.  It will take some experiments.  So don't throw away that old igniter. It may still be fine.

That page I linked to earlier shows how to check magnet polarity.  Here it is again:
KZ Pickup Magnet Polarity and Rotor (gpzweb.s3-website-us-east-1.amazonaws.com)

It can be a little confusing to get the polarity correct, so take it slow.

I agree Lou! Finally some spark. Unfortunately the old igniter has been trashed and the garbage was picked up Friday so that old thing is long gone. So you’re saying the next thing is to pull the pickup coil and see what the magnet situation looks like? If I am following correctly, this could be giving a weak voltage to the igniter this leaving me with only 1V at the coil? I will check back tonight once the magnets are off with an update. 

Make sure to notate how the magnets were before you disassemble. Look for white spots on the edge of magnets. Sometimes they are visible even while fully assembled.

Alright, looking at the diagram, and using the voltmeter test provided on the link, I get all good responses. They have a positive charge when the screwdriver goes near the pickup and a negative when it moves away. The magnet screws don’t act like they want to come out, they are starting to strip so if you all say that they need to come out to clear up the possibility of the magnets being tampered with then I will but otherwise I would rather not have to order new brass screws. They do not appear to be tampered with anyway so I am quite confident they are good, the screws appear to be brass so those check out with not being replaced from the factory. I see no identifying marks on the magnets while they are clamped down but the bolt meter test says they are installed correctly. 

Just use a small refrigerator magnet to determine that both magnets are facing the same way.  You don't need to take it apart to do that.

Make sure the same side of the small fridge magnet repels or attracts equally at the pickup's center pole pieces.  

Then setup a bench test with coils, igniters, pickups, resistor, and diodes, basically the whole system wired up as it will be on the bike.  Bringing the screwdriver to the pickup should produce a spark.

The bench test on the bike went great. Got good spark so I put everything back in it’s place and tested for spark using the starter. It worked. Outstanding news! I guess it was the igniter because that was the only thing I changed to HEI and now she sparks beautifully. I decided to see if she would run but when I hooked the gas up, I guess something wedged itself in the needle valve seat for 3 carbs so that will be fun. I’ll add a new thread to diagnose my non working turn signals. 

Great news!   Good to know the old igniter was the culprit.

If it doesn't fire up right away, make sure the advancer pointer is oriented the correct way.  It can be 180 degrees out which would show spark, but won't run.