TOPIC:

Picked up the Z1 Enterprises switch to replace the old, damaged ignition in my late production (Dec 1979) KZ650. The Z1 site states: "The 79 had a unique 5-pin configuration. This switch WILL work but may require a little electrical "surgery". REFER to a wiring diagram for assistance."

My 79 has a six-pin connector, as well as an additional brown wire that goes off on its own to various components according to the Clymer manual (page 299). Also, while the connector wire colors match fairly well between the old and new switch (I have a brown wire on the new that takes the place of the yellow on the old), the pattern where it connects to the switch isn't that close. There are also 2 extra pins on the new connector. Nor can I make sense of the continuity between posts that I get on the new switch to try to replicate the wiring pattern on the old.

Has anyone had the occasion to re-wire an EM40-80600 for a 79? Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the EM40-80600 similar to the one in the Clymer manual that shows which wires are lit up during the "run" or "park" positions?

You need to find a wiring diagram that includes a connection Schematic like the one shown in the red box of photo included. It will help you make your swap. Sorry I can’t locate one. Hopefully martin_crs or 650ed will see this. They are very good with you bike.

Here is a wiring diagram for the B3 C3 models. I have also included a text doc of the keyed switch with the number of wires on each and part#s.

27005-083
4 leads on switch - 4 pin connector
KZ650-B1 (1977)

27005-5001
6 leads on switch - 6 pin connector
KZ650-B2 (1978)
KZ650-B2A (1978)
KZ650-C1 (Custom) (1977)
KZ650-C2 (Custom) (1978)
KZ650-D1 (SR) (1978)
KZ650-D1A (SR) (1978)

27005-5007
7 leads on switch - 6 pin connector and single wire
KZ650-B3 (1979)
Kz650-B4 (1980)
KZ650-C3 (Custom) (1979)
KZ650-C4 (1980)
KZ650-D2 (SR) (1979)
KZ650-D3 (SR) (1980)
KZ650-D4 (SR) (1981)
KZ650-E1 (LTD) (1980)
KZ650-F1 (1980)

several part numbers depending upon where sold 27004 with one of the following 5123, 5124,5151,5152,or 27004 with one of thhe following 5024,5026
7 leads on switch - 6 pin connector and single wire
KZ650-F2 (1981)
KZ650-F3 (1982)
KZ650-F4 (1983)

27005-5024 (supersceeded 27005-5015 27005-5017 27005-5027 27005-5035)
7 leads on switch - 6 pin connector and single wire
KZ650-H1 (CSR) (1981)
KZ650-H2 (CSR) (1982)
KZ650-H3 (CSR) (1983)

CMcAuliffe wrote: Picked up the Z1 Enterprises switch to replace the old, damaged ignition in my late production (Dec 1979) KZ650. The Z1 site states: "The 79 had a unique 5-pin configuration. This switch WILL work but may require a little electrical "surgery". REFER to a wiring diagram for assistance."

My 79 has a six-pin connector, as well as an additional brown wire that goes off on its own to various components according to the Clymer manual (page 299). Also, while the connector wire colors match fairly well between the old and new switch (I have a brown wire on the new that takes the place of the yellow on the old), the pattern where it connects to the switch isn't that close. There are also 2 extra pins on the new connector. Nor can I make sense of the continuity between posts that I get on the new switch to try to replicate the wiring pattern on the old.

Has anyone had the occasion to re-wire an EM40-80600 for a 79? Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the EM40-80600 similar to the one in the Clymer manual that shows which wires are lit up during the "run" or "park" positions?

I very seriously doubt that your bike is 1979 model. Any Kawasaki bike built in December 1979 is a 1980 model. Try to equate the same scenario to cars. No car builder would wait until 1980 to start building 1980 model cars. If they did the dealers wouldn't have any new car inventory to sell in January. Bikes are the same. So you need to buy parts for the 1980 model not the 1979 model bike. Ed

Frame number is KZ650B 533166, Engine number is KZ650BE 115937. From what I found online, of course with a grain of salt, these are 1979 numbers. I'm not married to that idea, just going on what I've found so far absent some factory information.
I I have the electrical diagram of what it is I'm supposed to have in the Clymer Manual (1977-83).
What I need to know is my starting point in the EM40-80600, or better yet, what changes were made to the switch to make it work.
I've contacted Z1, but haven't heard back and I'm antsy to try to crank this over.
Only 28,000 miles on it!

Take a look at the links below. It looks like your bike is a 1980 model. Most likely a KZ650-B4.

kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/536286-kz650...ne-number-confusions

models.kz650.info/

Send a picture of the back of the new switch and back of the old switch.
Then send a pict of new connector vs old connector.
I have a feeling you may have to move some pins around on the new connector or splice the old connector to the new switch.

Do you have a VOM (volt, ohm, meter)? If yes then you can test the new switch as to what is hot once you turn the key to the on position and use the wiring diagram to figure out what if any changes need to be made in the connector.

I reassembled the old switch to check what gets lit and when. I checked it against the new and wrote up a wiring diagram for both. It seems the new switch would still keep the extra wire hot in the second key position.
Otherwise, it looks like I can just add the wire to the empty spot on the new and be done with it.
What's the second position for, anyway?

It parking. Allows the tail lights and running lights to be on without power the the coils...

The six-pin connector on the EM40 fits my application perfectly – all colors of the connector fit except the yellow wire on the original is brown on the EM40.
The original had a 7th, brown wire. I used a voltmeter to check for continuity on my original switch (and to verify the Clymer Manual) and then on the EM40.
It looked like all I had to do was take the brown wire from the original and place it on the empty terminal of the EM40. I wasn’t sure what I could do about the park position – I figure I’d worry about it only if I had to.
Popped everything in place, dropped in a new battery and: front parking lights, headlight, neutral indicator & Brake light failure light came on – as soon as the battery was hooked up – Key was in the OFF position.
Turning the key did nothing. The lights I mentioned stayed on, nothing else. Not in the “ignition” position, or the one after that.
Ideas?

Hi there, backfeed, all the loads on switch, wires are pretty much common, lights and ignition, you are feeding the battery lead to a load connection so everything lights up when you connect battery, the ignition switch is basically a big single pole switch with multiple load points, read all points on switch with VOM on continuity, with switch off, should see a bunch that read continuity and one that doesn't, turn key on, and all should read, that be used for incoming 12+, check fuse for 12+ color (white?) main feed , reconfigure connectors as needed, good luck.