TOPIC:

Got all the parts. Doing the regulator first. Pulled carbs, air box and chain guard to access. I guess the plan is installing with one bolt since the original holes don't line up. The OEM wires from the regulator butted right up against the chain guard. So there's no way the new one with connectors will fit in that direction. So I'm gonna reverse it, and remove the unused OEM igniter to provide additional room. This job would be much easier with the swingarm removed and the bike upside down.

Correction. It wasn't the igniter n the way under the battery box, it was the turn signal switch. No way could I fit the new regulator, so I rewired and put the switch behind the left side cover with the connector block.

Jack Flemming roadstercycle.com provided the wiring and connectors for the regulator upgrade on my bike. I haven't touched it since an SH775 regulator was installed in 2015, along with a new Kawasaki stator for it's Genuine OEM quality, and heavier gauge wire than aftermarket.

A totally awesome upgrade. Thanks again Nessism, for recommending it!

Good pic. You can see why I had to reverse it. On mine the chain guard is where your connectors sit.

Here are the chips that came off the rotor. Hopefully not an issue.

I doubt it.
Steve

If the magnets are not chipped or cracked you may be ok. From my experience with that issue, the missing stuff has migrated to the bottom of the oil pan.

Yummy!

Works great. 14 volts at idle. Thanks for the help. I won't have to push start it again.

Make sure your battery is fully changed, very important, then rev the engine to 5000 rpm and check charge voltage again. Ideal situation is 14.5 VDC. You don't want much higher or something may be wrong.

I brought it up to 4K and it was slowly climbing and I left it at that. It didn't get to 14.4v. Last time I checked before it took a dump it was like 12v at idle and had to race it to get near 14v. I'll check it at 5k next time. Thank again for the help.