TOPIC:

so I have this RH control, it looks ok, and seems to have the correct plug on it. The separate wiring is confusing though. It has a double female blue on it and a single blue with white tape indicator that could be a sub for the blue with white wire? What I have at the other end is the black, ground, that is supposed to go to one side of the starter button via the clutch mounted starter switch lockout or whatever they call that switch. I cant seem to find the harness from the clutch. Id like to bypass that switch and just run the black straight to the starter button, as I always make sure Im in neutral prior to starting anyway as a habit. What I am wondering is if anyone also purchased these controls and what you hooked up where. I have a 78 kz650SR thanks in advance for your wisdom

xstreamcanadian wrote: . Id like to bypass that switch and just run the black straight to the starter button, as I always make sure Im in neutral prior to starting anyway as a habit.

I don't get the 'advantage of doing that'. The starter button operates a relay - the solenoid - to activate the starer motor so you're not gaining anything by taking the clutch switch out of the circuit

I don't think a KZ900 switch has a clutch interlock. There is a hazard switch on the bars and that might be what those wires are for.

cb 900f I dont think you understood the question. Its not to gain some imaginary advantage, i am simply trying to get something to work.

I get what the starter button does, but on my bike, one side of the starter button circuit(ground) is broken through the clutch switch. This switch "makes" when the clutch lever is pulled in, completing the circuit and providing a ground to the one side of the button according to the schematic. I dont need that clutch switch. I would wire it up stock except i want to use the RH control I purchased as it looks much nicer than what i have

hardrock the hazard is on the LH control. Its hardwired straight off a six pin plug going to that side. So again.... not sure you really get what I am saying. I was hoping someone had done what I am trying as this kz900 switch is what z1 sells for all kzs sort of as a universal solution as most are wired the same or similar

Well, the schematic says it's for a 78 kz650.
Anyway, the black wire isn't a ground. It sends 12 v+ to the clutch switch.
If the switch is closed then that 12v+ goes to your starter relay and the starter turns.
You can bypass the switch if you want. It looks like it's the 2 black wires going to the left side control.
Just disconnect the wires at the green box and connect the 2 wires that are not going to the neutral switch(those wires are going to the starter switch and the starter relay) Tape them, heat shrink them whatever method you choose when joined.

Schematic: www.classiccycles.org/1852/597943.html

]Well, the schematic says it's for a 78 kz650. It looks pretty close.
Anyway, the black wire isn't a ground. It sends 12 v+ to the clutch switch. You see thats what I see from this as well. But I checked it with my meter on continuity and its a ground. The black I have at any rate. There is no wiring that you show in the green box. That shows a male/female bullet connection that just doesnt seem to exist on the bike, and I have two of them and its on neither. One has been buggered with and one not so not sure what I am missing.
If the switch is closed then that 12v+ goes to your starter relay and the starter turns. Following the black wire back it is on one side of the resistor shown, at the starter relay. I dont see it being 12 volts + anywhere. But assuming the starter button is just a momentary switch, if it wasnt 12volts the button would cause a dead short when you pushed it. So.... At any rate, the 4 pin conductor to the right of your green box is exactly as shown, with the goofy blue and white and brown wire factory spliced together after the connector and looped back, makes no sense to do that but it is what it is I guess it must have worked as they all seem to be that way.
You can bypass the switch if you want. It looks like it's the 2 black wires going to the left side control. Looks that way but no they would go to the clutch perch and the terminals off the clutch switch so when its pulled it in makes the connection.
Just disconnect the wires at the green box and connect the 2 wires that are not going to the neutral switch(those wires are going to the starter switch and the starter relay) Tape them, heat shrink them whatever method you choose when joined. - If I had them yes indeed I would. Same as bypassing a kick stand switch, agreed.

Schematic: www.classiccycles.org/1852/597943.html

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There are 2 black wires in that green box

The ground you are seeing is the ground on the other side of the starter relay.

Connect the black from the new switch to the black from the old switch

F64 wrote: There are 2 black wires in that green box

The ground you are seeing is the ground on the other side of the starter relay. uhm no. its an unaltered factory harness. that ground doesnt go anywhere near this location

Connect the black from the new switch to the black from the old switch

the issue is that the new switch has no black, and your green box, is actually showing two separate wires that are bullet connectors. That small sub harness is missing.

Thanks for trying to help

The green box I'm not going to explain further.
If the clutch switch is present, you can figure that out later.

Is this the new RH switch from Z1?
www.z1enterprises.com/handlebar-switchblock-rh-z1-kz900.html
If not..what are your wire colors on the new switch?

photo:z1 enterprises

Many/most, but not all Kz's use a strange wire-color convention on the starter relay. They use a black wire as positive for the solenoid coil, and a red/yellow for the ground. I don't know why they did this, but it is very common. Personally, I think someone screwed up early on and other designers just followed suit. You can find Kz's later on that use red/yellow as positive and black as ground, so some designers made the correction.

The bottom line is that the start button applies positive voltage to the black wire. As F64 said, you can bypass any clutch switch by connecting that black wire to the black wire of the starter solenoid. Or you can do it by just connecting those two black wires together in the green box. The red/yellow wire on the starter solenoid can remain connected to ground.

When I draw new diagrams for people I will often have a note about the wire colors on the solenoid. It can be wired either way. That is, the black wire can be connected to ground and the red/yellow wire can be connected to the black wire from the starter button for the positive 12v. On bikes I've worked on, about half of them have been changed by a previous owner or mechanic to make more sense... red/yellow as positive and black as ground.

What was really needed was a new color entirely to indicate positive 12v from the start button.

I have the same RH control in my stock for future. If anyone wants I can help with tracing the colors and circuits on the control to help cross fit it to the bikes wiring.