TOPIC:

hardrockminer wrote: But before you buy it why not try wiring your current pickup directly to the coils?

The Dyna III pickups can't be wired directly to the coils like the Dyna S. The pickup plate is just a trigger for the igniter box. It can't handle the full coil current.

hardrockminer wrote: You won't need that box with the DS2-1 pickup. But before you buy it why not try wiring your current pickup directly to the coils?

Haha funny you mention that because that’s exactly where my mind went too. I bypassed the box and followed a YouTube video on static timing to see if it would operate the same as the newer DS2-1. Seems like with this orientation (box removed) it’s sending a constant signal to the coils. The test light never turned off.

An ignition requires pickups and a "driver" for the coils. Both the III and S use Hall-effect pickups. The driver is a big transistor, usually a Darlington-pair BJT (bipolar junction transistor) or IGBT (insulated-gate bipolar junction transistor). In the Dyna III, the transistor is in the box. In a Dyna S, the transistor is on the pickup plate. So a Dyna III pickup plate, by itself cannot control the coil to make a spark (as DOHC said). The Dyna S pickup plate can.

Will this relay work for the relay mod?

Yes it will work. Even the terminal numbers match the Schematic I posted.

Looks OK

Cool, I’ll be installing that tomorrow. The new Dyna pick-up didn’t show up today. Little bummed but should have it within the next couple of days.

I’d recommend a good OEM style connectors. The CK-1 is a good starter kit

vintageconnections.com/Products/Kits

Alright guys, I got the new Dyna S installed last night and all put back together. She runs like a beast again! Didn’t take any pictures because I was too excited to get it back together to get a quick test ride in before it got dark. Will get some soon.

Did a plug chop test and the plugs were a dark golden brown with a hint of ash on the tip. Little more fuel needed maybe? Running a .030” gap. Fuel screws at 2 full turns out from lightly seated.

A couple of things came to mind as I was putting the bike away in the garage last night. As I was timing the Dyna S, it seemed as if there was a decent amount of play when trying to line up the timing markings. I couldn’t figure it out but I timed it to as close as it would let me. Would the play be from the advancer nut notches being old and worn out? My OCD is telling me to buy a new nut and bolt and re-time it for safe measures...

I then realized that I might need to bump up my pilot jet size. I’m running 17.5 pilot and 117.5 mains. I didn’t mess with the needles so I have no clue what they’re set at. I feel a 20 pilot would help after researching some others jetting combos with similar pods and exhaust set-up.

Thoughts??

With pods you should just fit air corrector jets and go up on the mains.
Leave the pilots stock and also the needle position.
www.kzrider.com/forum/23-for-sale/611992...-round-slide-mikunis
With the Dyna you can run up to 0 .40" (1mm) plug gap.

zed1015 wrote: With pods you should just fit air corrector jets and go up on the mains.
Leave the pilots stock and also the needle position.
www.kzrider.com/forum/23-for-sale/611992...-round-slide-mikunis
With the Dyna you can run up to 0 .40" (1mm) plug gap.

I did see others running up to a .040” gap. I might play with it to see what gap it likes.

PM’ed you about ordering some air corrector jets.

Any thoughts on the slight play in the spark adjuster nut?

Once you static set timing then fine tune with a timing light.

The advancer is indexed to the crank with a pin. Slack in the 17 mm nut won’t affect timing