SWest wrote: That's the way mine is. I'd rather a positive ground rather than having to go through the loom.
The more that I look at this wiring harness and the wear it has taken over the years the more convinced I am to replace the darn thing. I didn't want to get involved in changing out the harness, but when I saw the fuse holder was half melted away and some other issues I am leaning more towards putting in a new harness. Obviously I can't locate an OEM harness, but there are several after market harness suppliers. Does anyone know which of the available harnesses out there are best? I have never been real handy with wiring changes, so I would like to keep it as easy as possible.
The white wire going through that pin connector is the weak link. It is so small it gets hot and fries causing a cascading effect. I would have rather kept it stock but every one I've seen has the same problem.
>>> "This makes me wonder if a previous owner wasn't trying to fix something the easy way, instead of the right way. Has anyone ever seen something like this before on the rectifier ground wire?"
The 73 rectifier ground and regulator ground ran through the harness, in late 73 or early 74 they have separate ground wires that bolt to engine near kick starter.
Your harness looks nice, I would replace fuse holder and attached hot wire to battery terminal (original attaches to solenoid lead.
The 3 whites together are correct, on the double side one goes to the fuse box, one to the rectifier and on the single end to the battery, the pair lower down near your chain guard you have a red on white coming out of the fuse box and the white going to the ignition switch, if your fuse box has melted it would be wise to get a New one with the emphasis on New, also clean all the connectors and make sure they are a snug fit, and lastly wherever possible turn any tight kinks in the wires to curves as kinks create a resistance and this can blow fuses and cause burning also make sure you have good earths, a smear of copper grease will aid with the earth connections.
Thanks to all for the assistance and information. I did in fact locate a new OEM fuse box and have installed the same. If I can get some help from a friend of mine I will be replacing the wire harness at least the main and center one I think they call it. There are plenty of twisted and Mickey Mouse wire connections so I think it best to start fresh and avoid problems. I guess I don't understand the reasoning Kawasaki had for keeping the wire connections "hot" to the rectifier and fuse box with the key off, but then again I am not an electrician. I think it would have been a safer design to kill power to those items with the ignition switch in case something shorts out. Anyway, thank you for the help once again.
Rick H. wrote: I guess I don't understand the reasoning Kawasaki had for keeping the wire connections "hot" to the rectifier and fuse box with the key off, but then again I am not an electrician. I think it would have been a safer design to kill power to those items with the ignition switch in case something shorts out.
Their reasoning is you don't want a hot unfused wire running the length of the bike up to the switch and back. Should it rub through and short you will most likely have a fire. Basically it goes Battery-->Fuse-->Keyswitch-->Everything Else.
Although there is a live going to the rectifier the circuit is not flowing until the switched live which is the brown wire is switched on at the ignition switch, and maybe now one might say the starter relay has a permanent live from the battery, but that is switched by the black coming from the starter button, you may find it difficult to get the correct harness for your bike as there may be other things changed like switches, i have learnt the hard way, and now i always get myself large coloured schematics and re-furbish my own harness's, i take my time as these are the devils or politicians own designs.
The following user(s) said Thank You: SWest, Scirocco, Rick H.
Having anything in the path between the rectifier output and the battery can result in a possible disconnection between the battery and rectifier output. If the battery is removed from the picture, the regulator cannot regulate properly. People found out the hard way that if you are running on the highway and the battery becomes disconnected, the bike can continue to run, but the voltage gets high such that every lightbulb can end up burned-out or melted and eventually other electronics get damaged.
It doesn't blow a fuse because the over-voltage doesn't exceed the amperage rating of the fuse. It's just raised enough to damage components, but not enough to melt wires (which is what fuses are designed to protect). The regulator is supposed to protect everything else.
Diodes are reliable enough that they can be connected to a 12v source (the battery) indefinitely... far more reliable than ignition switch contacts or fuse connections.
Interestingly, at some point Kawasaki did in fact put a fuse between the rectifier output and the battery, in later Kz's, then even later, removed it.