Are the two pickups on a Dyna S identical?

No, the rotor can fit both ways on the shaft. Take off the bolt and turn it around.
Steve

SWest wrote: No, the rotor can fit both ways on the shaft. Take off the bolt and turn it around.
Steve

Oh, that certainly makes things easier. Will give this a try. Thanks all for your help, I'm constantly amazed by the community here.

Or simply swap the black and white wire on the connectors plugs, no tools needed.



PS:
I had to modify my pickup plate to add an extra wire on one pickup for my new signal converter to get an clear square-wave signal corresponding to my KOSO rev counter.
The signal output should be between 0,5 - 0,8 Volt DC on the black/white wire.

Michael

Scirocco wrote: Or simply swap the black and white wire on the connectors plugs, no tools needed.

I don't think that's quite right. I have to switch both I think - rotate the rotor 180, so that the (working, currently 1/4) working pickup is triggered on the 2/3 beat, and then switch the black/white connectors you're talking about, so that that signal goes to the 2/3 coil, which is hooked up to the 2/3 plugs/cylinders.

If I only switched the wires as you said, I'd have the 2/3 plugs firing, but out of sync - they'd be firing when the 1/4 plugs should be. Please correct me if I'm wrong .

PS - could you expand on what you're talking about with the extra wire? 1) this isn't directly relevant to me, correct? Somewhat confused by your comment though - what does the signal between ground black/white look like? or are you just saying you spliced on an extra output from one of the pickups that you route to a tach? Assuming the latter, does the tach have it's own signal conditioner/signal converter, or is that a filter you've built yourself - if it's something you've built, I'd be interested in seeing the schematics.

aenikolopov wrote: If I only switched the wires as you said, I'd have the 2/3 plugs firing, but out of sync - they'd be firing when the 1/4 plugs should be. Please correct me if I'm wrong .

Yes! correct.

Yes, i forgot to say you have to swap the 1/4 and 2/3 spark plug ignition cable too.
The extra wire isn't directly relevant to you, correct.
I had test my output signal voltage and square-wave signal with an oscilloscope and a multimeter. The signal output should be between 0,5 - 0,8 Volt DC on the black/white wire if everything is right.
I need this signal converter to convert the 0,5 - 0,8 Volts square-wave signal to an 12 Volts square-wave signal to get a steady reading on my rev counter
So i have to add an extra wire to one pickup output for the signal converter input.
I have a twitching/bouncing rev counter problem @ 4000 and above.

I tried the procedure of running cylinders 2/3 off of the 1/4 pickup, and they worked fine, so it seems my initial suspicions were correct - I burned out the 2/3 pickup. Scirocco, you are quite correct that switching the plug wires for 3 and 4 does not in any obvious way burn out the coil, so I'll eventually have to figure what happened there. For now, I think I'm going to replace the Dyna system with a kawi oem electronic ignition, which i've picked up off ebay. Lots of my riding is in the city anyway and the draw from the Dyna S is hell on my battery. I'll still give dynatek a call tomorrow though to see if they won't ship out a replacement pickup. Thanks all..

Trying to create spark with the plug wires disconnected and open can easily burn out a coil driver. I believe that is a common cause of such failures. A likely time to happen is during a compression test. People forget to disconnect the ignition power when cranking.