Are the two pickups on a Dyna S identical?

So, I think I blew out my electronic ignition, or rather I think I blew out half of it. This is a 1980 KZ650F1. Working on it, I accidentally switched the spark plug wires for 3 and 4. Starting it up, the 20Amp fuse blew, and when I replaced it and started things up, only cylinders 1 and 4 were firing. I've tested the 2/3 coil and it's fine (it fires 1/4 fine if I hook it up to those), and the wiring from the Dyna S to the coils seems fine. Externally, the dyna seems fine, but there looks to be a tiny bit of melted insulation near the the pickup that leads to the 2/3 coil, and that makes me think that it shorted out and burned up.

To test my theory, I'd like to switch the two pickups on the Dyna S (this is a DS2-2), to see if that switches which cylinders fire. Anyone know if they are identical??

As an aside - does anyone know if Dyna sells replacement pickups, or do I have to replace the whole unit, if I choose to do that

You can call them and get what you need. Good people.
Steve

That's good to hear, thanks. Will give them a ring Monday.

I do´t think you got the pickup´s separately.
You have to buy the complete pickup plate if available as a spare part.
Both pickup´s get the voltage with the red wire so why should they burn or melded by swapping the spark plug wires???
A pic would help to diagnosing you problem.

Scirocco wrote: I do´t think you got the pickup´s separately.
You have to buy the complete pickup plate if available as a spare part.
Both pickup´s get the voltage with the red wire so why should they burn or melded by swapping the spark plug wires???
A pic would help to diagnosing you problem.

That's a strong point, I'm not really sure. A pic of what would help? the melted bit?

I doubt switching wires would do it. They do sell parts separately. I bought a rotor last year $25. Had it in three days. You can turn the rotor 180* to test. I'd call and ask.
Closed mouths don't get fed.
Steve
www.dynaonline.com/products/sportbikes/dyna-s.aspx

The pickups are on the primary wiring side of the spark coil.
The spark plug wires are on the secondary wiring side of the spark coil.
They a not direct electrical connected, only by inductive electric fields
You have to do a shortcut test with a multimeter.

P.S
My first 1000th post, more to come....

If it does turn out to be one of the units is bad, like Steve said, they will usually sell you just that part.

The pickups/driver units are pretty sensitive, and it is not uncommon for one to go belly up. Luckily Dyna has been good about customer service.

Scirocco wrote: The pickups are on the primary wiring side of the spark coil.
The spark plug wires are on the secondary wiring side of the spark coil.
They a not direct electrical connected, only by inductive electric fields
You have to do a shortcut test with a multimeter.

P.S
My first 1000th post, more to come....

Hah, congrats on #1000.

You're right, I don't have a very good explanation of what happened. that said, the pickup does seem to be burned out. Testing for a short won't really answer the question as it's an issue of the electronics being burned out, which doesn't require a still-existing short.

Like I said, you can turn the rotor on the spark advance then switch the wires to the coil to see it the issue follows the change.
Steve

Switching plug wires wouldn't have done any damage to anything except fire the wrong plugs.
Both pick-ups are the same but "handed".
A good indicator of a faulty one is white contact paste creeping out from the back between the pick-up and back plate due to overheating as well as possible visible heat damage to the wire insulation.
Replacement pick-ups are simply soldered to your original wires with a bit of heat shrink to cover the joint..
Testing a bad pick-up is as mentioned usually a simple case of switching the the wires to the coils and turning the rotor 180 degrees and if the fault moves to 1-4 it's the likely to be the pick-up or associated LT wiring to the coils.

SWest wrote: Like I said, you can turn the rotor on the spark advance then switch the wires to the coil to see it the issue follows the change.
Steve

zed1015 wrote: Testing a bad pick-up is as mentioned usually a simple case of switching the the wires to the coils and turning the rotor 180 degrees and if the fault moves to 1-4 it's the likely to be the pick-up or associated LT wiring to the coils.

Right, right - I had thought I need to remove the pickups individually but I realize now that's unnecessary. You've both mentioned turning the rotor, but if I remember correctly, the rotor (the round black magnetic bit that fits over the shaft and advance mechanism) can only go on one way, so I assume you mean to install the entire plate inverted 180degrees (and reverse the wiring). That makes perfect sense, thanks!