TOPIC:

I moved to a LiFePO4 battery so there isn't a place to put the electrolyte sensor. Consequently the red flashing LED on the dash is constantly flashing. Does that sensor just pick up 12v or a ground through the battery's electrolyte? What is the best way to turn that hummer off?

connect it to 12v.

Thank you Loud. I appreciate you.

I usually put a 100mA fuse on the wire so that I dont toast the cluster. Just to be safe.
/A

Strapping it to 12V worked well. Odd coincidence but I've got three 1982 KZ750's in my garage at the moment, so I looked at the other two to see what was done with the orange wire for the electrolyte sensor. One of them had been spliced (twice) and left hanging in the air. The second one was more interesting. It has a resistor spliced into the line in a waterproof wrap.

I remember parts of my electronics training, but not enough to decode the color code on it off the top of my head. I can dig it up if I need to but I suspect the purpose is to limit the current flow while leaving the 12v potential. Thoughts?

The orange wire for the electrolyte sensor should be the pink one (looks orange by discoloring by ageing process).




I would add a resistor ( 600-750 Ohm ) into the circuit to prevent overheating or a shortcut.

Some more facts to the sensor system.





Michael

10v? Ain't that a bit odd?
The probe is located in one of the cells, and the Nominal cell voltage of a leda accumulator is 2,1 v.

I bet that a very low current will satisfy the electrolyt level indicator in the dash.
My guess is that the voltage shall be in th 1,7-2.3 volt range.

But then on the other hand the level sensor basically works as a switch. Contact with electrolyte or not
So my guess is that it's of no use to take the current down, it's designed based on the nominal current of the bikes electrical systems 12v.
So no need to make it more complicated than necessary, and all four Gpz750 that me and my friends have has just had there pink .cables connected to 12v and so far no harm done.

/A

My guess is that the sensor is merely a voltage sensor/switch. From what I recall, the sensor probe is just a piece of metal that can withstand the acid. The voltage on the probe will vary depending on which cell you insert it in. The cells are in series, so each one is about 2v higher than the one next to it, as you move away from the cell connected to the negative terminal to the cell connected to the positive terminal.

The diagrams don't seem to show a resistor in series with the probe, but I do hear of people adding one. I suspect it doesn't need an external resistor or fuse for the same reason you don't need a resistor or fuse on your volt meter. The circuit is a high-impedance circuit (relatively speaking), like a meter (but a meter is much higher), which prevents any significant current from flowing. The resistance spec of the sensor, I think, refers to the internal resistance of the sensor circuit for troubleshooting purposes. Since the probe could easily be inserted into the highest cell of the battery, they would have internally protected the circuit for such a situation.

The wire will have voltage on it, but it's no more dangerous than any other wire with un-fused battery voltage on it. Adding a resistor or fuse won't hurt, but there is already one or more wires attached to the battery without a fuse in between. So this would just be one more.

I've seen them connected to the positive terminal for years with no problems.

I've seen them connected to the positive terminal for years with no problems

Yes, same here now running with a gel battery.



...Got me thinking, that 82 GPz LCD instrument pod was cutting edge technology then, even basic digital watches were not cheap back in '82.
The GPz750R1 was the last in the line, a z650 on steroids, less fat, more muscle with ripped 'origami' body.

It amazes me why ELR Lawson Reps are about fourfold more valuable, for a bike no less rare (now) .