'82 CSR 750 Twin - Stator? Battery? Rectifier?

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29 Mar 2017 19:29 #758086 by J_Rod_
Need some help..

Battery Will not charge...
When Bike started, dies at idle. Runs while throttle open, but Engine seems to cut out above 5500 RPM'S.

Can't disconnect stator leads to test resistance without having to re-splice. Will probably have to eventually...
Rectifier tested normal(or what i think is normal) between one of the yellow leads and the ground... but showed nothing when testing the other yellow lead.

Pos and Neg battery leads touched frame while riding after battery install and bike shut off. Re-seated battery, That is when problems started. Ordered new rectifier and new battery. Thoughts?

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30 Mar 2017 07:01 - 30 Mar 2017 08:20 #758114 by martin_csr
Replied by martin_csr on topic '82 CSR 750 Twin - Stator? Battery? Rectifier?
The bike needs a good, fully charged battery to run right. I would charge the battery with a mc charger & also do a load test.
After charging, It should be at least 12.6 VDC, but a good battery will be higher. Then with the bike running,
you can check the voltage at the battery terminals. It should be approx. 14.5 VDC @ 4000 rpms.

There should be bullet terminal on the stator leads, unless they've been soldered or something. If soldered,
you might be able to back-probe at the voltage regulator connector. Or you should be able to remove the stator terminals
from the connector. easy to do with either a paper clip or terminal removal tool.

ps: I don't know what might have been damaged when the pos (+) terminal shorted to the frame. The 650 manual says the zener diode can get burned out if the battery is connected backwards. I would check the fuses.
Last edit: 30 Mar 2017 08:20 by martin_csr.

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30 Mar 2017 10:53 #758142 by J_Rod_
The bullet terminals seem to be fused somehow. Tried to disconnect, but I will likely just end up ripping the wiring.

I charged the battery before I made the initial tests. Then drained it while attempting to start the bike and run the tests. Put it on the charger and left the shop. Buddy checked it and said it wasn't fully charging.. just sitting at yellow on the charger. Gonna install the new rectifier and use a different(fully charged) battery and then run tests again.

What electrical issue could cause the bike to cut out at 5500 rpm and above?

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30 Mar 2017 12:40 - 31 Mar 2017 05:30 #758151 by martin_csr
Replied by martin_csr on topic '82 CSR 750 Twin - Stator? Battery? Rectifier?
The bullet terminals have probably never been separated & could be just stuck. even the terminal covers can cause them to stick. and after they've been disconnected, they can be hard to separate the next time. Since it's a motorcycle, they probably fit tight for a reason.

A bad or discharged battery will cause the bike to run poorly at speed as it provides the energy to fire the ignition coil.
Also, the ignition coil could be fine cold, but perform poorly when hot & under load.
But make certain the battery is good & passes a load test first.

Yuasa batteries are made in USA, if you need a new one. I wish I knew that sooner. doh.
I have a Scorpion AGM and use a Ctek US 0.8 smart charger & VC97 digital multimeter.
Last edit: 31 Mar 2017 05:30 by martin_csr.

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01 Apr 2017 06:14 #758286 by Tyrell Corp
Replied by Tyrell Corp on topic '82 CSR 750 Twin - Stator? Battery? Rectifier?
If you disconnect the block connector that goes to the RR box you can probe the stator side of it with a meter, the resistance should be equal between any two of the three yellows - less than 1 ohm but infinite between any yellow and ground.

kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/598102-gp...r1-charging-problems

What sort of voltage are you getting from the battery, off and running?

A defective charging circuit won't cause your problems if you have a charged battery. Recharge the battery and do some voltage readings first. The electronic igntions are quite sensitive to a decent battery voltage.

1980 Gpz550 D1, 1981 GPz550 D1. 1982 GPz750R1. 1983 z1000R R2. all four aces

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19 Apr 2017 20:10 #759636 by J_Rod_
Installed new RR. Same issues remain. Runs fine for a sec, but under any load... lotsnof back firing and loss of power.

While running and relatively warm, battery read between 12.9 and 13.3 volts. When turned off it read around but above 10 v. Shouldnit be pegged at 13v while running?

Im thinking I coul dhave either done something to the stator leads while changing the gasket on the stator side of the engine... or I could have fried my ignition coil. Or both?

All thoughts and /or recommendations are appreciated. Either way Im gonna remove the engine cover and check the sator leads. Also couldn't hurt to drop 50 bucks on an ignition coil.

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20 Apr 2017 06:32 #759657 by JMKZHI
Do you have a good motorcycle battery charger?

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20 Apr 2017 06:48 #759658 by J_Rod_
I do, andnall of this was done with a fully charged battery.

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21 Apr 2017 07:06 #759767 by JMKZHI
Did you check the voltage @ 4000 rpms? It probably should be about 14.5 VDC.

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