1980 KZ440 ground continuity at the fuses?

I have ground continuity at the fuses, and am wondering if this is normal. Still trying to figure out the no spark issue.

Also found that my points were really close together from where they should be. fixed that, still no spark. Could that ground issue mean wire issue, or is that normal?

To have continuity of some sort would be expected. The fuses are connected to things that are connected to ground.
The main will likely have 12v on it since it's connected to the battery.

Dead short to ground is obviously not normal.

With ign switched ON, is there any voltage at the terminal where the red/yellow wire attaches to the coil?

Good Fortune!

Yes there is, when in the off position, it is 0. When in the on position, with negative on battery, positive on post at coil, I get close to the same reading I get at the battery pos/neg (currently 11.8 V still charging again). I am currently reading approx. 10.5 volts at the coil in the on position.

At that voltage you have more than 10% loss. That seems like an aweful lot to me. With a fully charged battery, I believe anything below 1v drop is workable. A few tenths would be fine. I am not sure this is enough to prevent starting, but some quality time spent cleaning all the electrical connections with some Deoxit D 5 and some tiny brass brushes and cotton swabs would be a good idea.

When properly assembled with serviceable components (coil, points and wiring) and charged battery, and ignition switched ON, here's how it's supposed to work:

With points closed, the coil is charging (coil's primary winding is being grounded through the closed points). Unclean point contacts can prevent the needed grounding.

Opening of the points is the event which should un-ground the coil's primary winding and is supposed to cause the coil to fire through the secondary loop (plug wires, caps and plugs).

A break anywhere within the secondary loop usually prevents spark at the plugs. Such as bad plug, bad cap, bad wire, bad connection anywhere (coil>wire>cap>plug).




Good Fortune!

And here in lies the question. New ignition coil, with wires and caps, new plugs, continuity int he wire from the points, and power from battery (will retest when batteries switched tomorrow.) I replaced so many things, including the condenser, that the last thing to replace is the points... I put the points on the plate, so tomorrow morning I will replace the points plate into the bike (it was marked at the location it was in when removed) and go from there...

CPLSeraphim wrote: ...continuity int he wire from the points...I put the points on the plate, so tomorrow morning I will replace the points plate into the bike....

As known, correct fitment of the fiber insulating washers is critical so that the signal wire between points and coil serves to ground the coil's primary winding when the points are closed and serves to un-ground the coil's primary winding at the moment when the when the points open.

Here's hoping for fat blue sparks at the plugs.

Good Fortune!

Read the voltage on the negative side of the coil. When the points are open, it should be near battery voltage. With the points closed it should be near 0v. If you get near 0v with the points open, then you need to re-check the insulator washers etc on the points assembly.

TexasKZ;
You figured it out for me, Thank you. I ran a direct wire from the positive battery terminal to the coil, and it turned over, and I got spark. It backfired, probably from all the starter fluid while trying to start it, but I had to leave for work, so battery is charging. Thank you guys for all the help. I never would have thought the issue was a loss in the wire that looks good and has continuity... Probably something within the wiring harness that is covered.

You are welcome. It is nice to know that I can guess correctly now and then:woohoo:

It could be a wire with some broken strands, but I think the more common possibility is dirty and corroded connectors, including ground wires. If you have never used a product like Deoxit on a dirty, corroded connector, you will be shocked at the results. I swear they put majic in a can.

You have to build an independent ignition system only = (wiring battery+ 10A fuse/ points / coils to an ignition only system)
Under this minimal system the engine must start
See Patton´s pic
All other bike wiring harness has to be disconnect from this poor mans ignition system.
Your bike wiring harness has a copper devil inside and need an exorcisms.

Michael