Turn Signal Assembly

Im new here so heres my issue i inherited a bike from father its a 1982 kawasaki KZ1100D Spectre Shaft there were issues with it while he had it he would tinker with it then he got sick and passed away ive had the for 3 yrs now replaced the stator , rectifier battery finally got it running now the issue that im having is the turn signals stopped working as well as the horn i tested the flashers all other components talked to some people and to find out the signal control assembly is bad so is there a way to find a replacement ive looked on ebay google i found one but it was sold all the other ones i found are wrong the one i need has 3 connectors on it and a connector that goes into the clutch handle all help would be greatly appreciated

thank you in advance for the help

From the x-ref at Partzilla several models had the same left handlebar control switch. Also, the 750N Spectre has a similar unit w 3 conn & clutch sw. There may be others that might work.

The clutch swotch & its conn are probably separate from the other control wiring, so you may not necessarily need a housing control w the clutch sw. you could get that separately or unwrap yours from the control pigtail.

Sometimes the old switch assembly can be saved. After three or four decades of heat and vibration, the old solder joints can let go. Usually, a little cleaning and re-soldering does the trick. If the switch contacts have gotten dirty or corroded, they often can be opened up (watch carefully for tiny flying parts!) and cleaned with some Deoxit D5 and a tiny wire brush.

It may be just a wireing issue. Do you have a manual?
Steve

TexasKZ wrote: Sometimes the old switch assembly can be saved. After three or four decades of heat and vibration, the old solder joints can let go. Usually, a little cleaning and re-soldering does the trick. If the switch contacts have gotten dirty or corroded, they often can be opened up (watch carefully for tiny flying parts!) and cleaned with some Deoxit D5 and a tiny wire brush.

Yep. Just went thru this with my café bike. I had to take the switch completely apart (take pictures!) and re-solder the wires that had popped off. Not too difficult.

The factory soldering jobs leave a lot to be desired for cleanliness,and proper use of flux. If in doubt,touch up the joints with a no more than 25 Watt soldering iron,as anything larges will melt insulation,and maybe destroy the switch contacts.

I post this now and then,as reminders on soldering.

Repairing crumbled switch and light bulb socket soldering.

Some of the older Kawasaki's, and possibly the other brands of motorcycles may be experiencing crumbled or failed switch and light bulb factory soldering jobs. Here's a repair procedure:

When repairing soldered wires on motorcycle switches or light bulbs sockets, have the following on hand:

1. A 25 Watt soldering iron or one that the wattage can be adjusted.

2. Rosin core solder.

3. Rosin flux or soldering paste (Never use solder or soldering paste designed for plumbing work, as it contains an acid that will corrode the electrical joint, ruining it).

4. 91% rubbing Alcohol, or 70%. The lower percentage will clean up flux residue, but not as good as the higher percentage stuff. Acetone will also remove soldered flux residue, but it’s flamable(easy to ignite).

5. A cut down ½” paint brush, or acid brush for scrubbing the repaired solder joint.

6. Clean rags or paper towels.

7. A damp sponge to keep the soldering iron tip clean.

8. Some “Solder Wick” a braided bare copper wire designed to collect heated excess solder, aiding in joint preperation, available at electronic supply stores.

9. Some wooden toothpicks.

10. Small Hemostats or clip on heatsinks.

A. Before soldering, “Tin” the soldering iron tip by plugging it in or turning the iron on, allowing it to get to operating temperature(2-3 minutes).

B. Unroll about 3” of solder from the roll of rosin core solder & then using a clean rag or paper towel moistened with Alcohol, wipe the unrolled solder, removing the finger print oils that will create a poor solder joint.

C. Apply a small amount of solder to the now heated soldering iron tip, wiping the excess off with the wet sponge or rag, keeping a thin layer of solder on the soldering iron.

D. The soldering iron is now ready for use, but before applying the heated tip to a wire, wipe the tip on the damp sponge or rag, this removes any oxidized solder and makes for a much better connection.

E. If the joint to be repaired is grey in color or appears “Crumbled”, apply some rosin soldering paste or flux to the joint with a small toothpick of screwdriver, and then apply the soldering iron tip for a few seconds.

G. The fluxed joint should clean up, allowing for a better connection. If no luck, use the solder wick to remove all traces of the old solder by apply in it between the soldering iron tip and the bad joint.

H. Hemostats and clip on heatsinks will be used to prevent the wire insulation from burning, overheating & pulling away from the connection.

I. Apply a small amount of flux to the joint to be repaired & then a very short duration of heated soldering iron tip & solder(like a few seconds or so).

J. Clean off the repaired joint with the brush & rubbing Alcohol, the newly repaired joint should appear clean and bright, almost as if it were polished, with no voids or holes.

This comes from my years at General Dynamics/Convair (1983-1993)
When I built, wired and assembled test equipment and electrical cables for the Tomahawk and later the Advanced Cruise missile.

The company had a week long soldering school, instructing you how to hand solder to Mil-Specs.