Main fuse and headlight fuse blowing on KZ1000 P

The main 30A fuse keeps blowing on my KZP1000P but it only happens once a week or so. If I don't switch headlights and position lights on it works fine as soon as I flip the switch on both fuses gets scolding hot. Main fuse also gets scolding hot if I engage the breaks and hold them. If I unplug the fairing with all the lights and flip the headlight switch on it powers the speedometer/tachometer lights and the fuse gets only a little hot. Do I need to look for a shorted wire somewhere? Why would it take so long for the fuse to blow then? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Might be a wire left for the Cop equipment. A friend's Crown Vic burned down because they didn't kill the wires when they removed the equipment.
Steve

Sounds like the bad fuse clips. I'm not sure how long they kept using the same idea, but back in the 70s KZs they used those stupid clips that caused the fuses to run too hot to touch and frequently melt plastic nearby. If it was now they would all be recalled for a huge safety hazard. I thought of this many a mile riding at night just praying the fuses would not burn. So my guess is the clips are bad, second guess is wires worn through going into the headlight shell shorting out. The fact fuses run hot indicate the clips. The more curreht drawn, the hotter the heat gets eventually melting the fuse.

askaraboz wrote: The main 30A fuse keeps blowing on my KZP1000P but it only happens once a week or so. If I don't switch headlights and position lights on it works fine as soon as I flip the switch on both fuses gets scolding hot. Main fuse also gets scolding hot if I engage the breaks and hold them. If I unplug the fairing with all the lights and flip the headlight switch on it powers the speedometer/tachometer lights and the fuse gets only a little hot. Do I need to look for a shorted wire somewhere? Why would it take so long for the fuse to blow then? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Fuses actually take a while to blow if they have current at or maybe 10 - 30% above their rating. In some fuses, they can run an hour at rated current. Usually when fuses blow fast it's some kind of hard short. Ones that take time to blow are some kind of overload not just a short.

One obvious thing: old fuses have to get chucked, replace them all to start.

As somebody said: bad connections at the fuses from dirty or oxidized clips will create tremendous heat and can screw the fuse.

My main fuse kept getting hot. I cleaned them but in time the fuse would blow. I gave it lighter duty and installed a large modern one. Doesn't get hot and no problems.
Steve

The wires inside my fuse holder connect to the fuse clips in a cavity accessible only from the bottom. They are mechanically held together with rivets.
Those wire connections at the fuse clip became loose, which generated heat and blew the main fuse. I used a hammer and center-punch to re-establish that connection, which solved that problem.

If the charging system is good, another source of blowing stuff up is a simple bad ground with respect to the voltage regulator and or rectifier!!

Thanks for all the answers. I started checking wires for continuity and so far every wire in that circuit is good. Opened the headlight switch and everything checks out there, wires to and from are good. Headlight bulb is good and of the right wattage. Will dig up the fuse box tomorrow and let you know. If the fuse box is bad is it ok to replace with something like this? www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Bl...-2&keywords=fuse+box

On my XS650 the clip that hold the glass fuses wore out. I replaced them all with individual blade fuses and holders for just a few bucks. Not sure what the KZP fuses look like. I guess I should check mine :laugh:

So I replaced the main fuse with the modern blade fuse and it works great so far doesn't get hot at all. Will do the same for the other ones cause they still run hot even after cleaning the fuse holders. Thanks for pointing me out in the right direction cause I was ready to take it to the shop.
goo.gl/photos/mtkbYcnDN9VyHz2w9

And that's what the bike looks like:
goo.gl/photos/3ptYJ7Kh9bpjg9k28

Fuses actually take a while to blow if they have current at or maybe 10 - 30% above their rating. In some fuses, they can run an hour at rated current. Usually when fuses blow fast it's some kind of hard short. Ones that take time to blow are some kind of overload not just a short.

+!


..also, as terminals corrode and resistance (causing volt drop ) increases, so so does the extra current to compensate.

Power Watts = current Amps (squared) x resistance Ohms.

Bad electrics get even worse over time,as they get hotter and even more corroded..

first thing I do on old bike is go over the electrics, from battery , ignition switch etc through to the bulbs.