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Battery Woes
- Bowman
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Dinked around for an hour or so hooking up the instrument cluster then turned the key back on. Nothing is working and I'm getting ~1.4V off the white and the brown (used to be) hot leads.
Test the battery again and sure enough I'm getting the same ~1.4V between terminals. Then it gets weird. Take the battery out and test it and the meter shows it rising from 1.4V. It's been out for hours now and its showing about 8.5V.
I love electrical work.
Honda 55 Trail don't ask me what year, 65? (sold)
79 Yamaha XS400 (sold)
76 KZ750B Twin (project)
72 Honda CT70 (project)
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- Bowman
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Honda 55 Trail don't ask me what year, 65? (sold)
79 Yamaha XS400 (sold)
76 KZ750B Twin (project)
72 Honda CT70 (project)
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- wrenchmonkey
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Otherwise, it's sounding like you have a drain on the batt even when it's not being used but if this was the case, you should have observed some sparking when you connected the battety (ie: an electrical load was present as you connected the terminals).
Best practice to installing a battety is connect positive (+) first, then negative (-) second. Reverse order when disconnecting (remove negative first, then positive) as this order will help prevent you from shorting the tool against the frame.
HTH
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- bountyhunter
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You have described what happens if you discharge a battery. The voltage drops. Then if you let it sit, it drifts back up. I would charge the battery up immediately and retest. It's possible the battery was flat when you started it. There are three possibilities:Bowman wrote: I got an Anti-gravity li-ion battery (if that matters). Tested it before installing and got ~11.9V. Installed it and I got pretty much the same off the unswitched (white) lead to the ignition switch and the switched lead (brown) when I turned the key on. Plugged in the headlight and got both low and high beam working fine. Hit the starter button for like 1 second and it turned the motor. Turned the key off.
Dinked around for an hour or so hooking up the instrument cluster then turned the key back on. Nothing is working and I'm getting ~1.4V off the white and the brown (used to be) hot leads.
Test the battery again and sure enough I'm getting the same ~1.4V between terminals. Then it gets weird. Take the battery out and test it and the meter shows it rising from 1.4V. It's been out for hours now and its showing about 8.5V.
I love electrical work.
1) The battery is bad and goes down on it's own.
2) There is some kind of current drain in your bike that sucked the battery down while you worked on it.
3) The battery was never charged to begin with.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- martin_csr
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From the following article, you have to be careful about what kind of charger to use & how to charge Shorai LiFePO batteries. using the wrong charger can overcharge a battery, a common cause of battery failure. Shorai recommends using a shorai charger for their batteries. It also says don't use a smart charger with a de-sulfation pulse mode (there are no lead sulfates in Shorai lithium batteries).
batterystuff.com --- Shorai Lithium battery --- charging
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- Bowman
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I think I found the culprit, doesn't mean I know how to fix it however.
When the key is off the battery remains stable, actually creeps up towards 12V very slowly. When the key is on it discharges quickly. So I turned the key off, disconnected something, turn key back on see if its still draining. Got to the coil eventually, pulled the Red/Yellow lead to the coil and voila, no more draining.
Faulty coil? Or short in the starter button or kill switch?
Honda 55 Trail don't ask me what year, 65? (sold)
79 Yamaha XS400 (sold)
76 KZ750B Twin (project)
72 Honda CT70 (project)
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- Bowman
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Honda 55 Trail don't ask me what year, 65? (sold)
79 Yamaha XS400 (sold)
76 KZ750B Twin (project)
72 Honda CT70 (project)
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.