GPz1100 experts -

My rectifier is weak and going intermittent .

I have a new one, so my question is this - can I get in there above the swingarm and change it from the bottom, or do I have to gut-out my motorcycle to get at it?

I have to take out my battery box to get to it easily. I just put my new R/R under a side cover.
Steve

You can maybe get to the two m6 fasteners underneath if you unbolt the battery frame and lift it out just a touch - without removing it or diconnecting too much..

I would rubber mount any new replacement and clean up the exisitng wiring loom male blade connector.

First check the problem isn't a defective stator wiring / connector issue, the 'intermittent' part makes me think that. A blown rectifier diode I'd expect to be a permanent unchanging issue.

Dump the digi multimeter when doing running voltage tests, the meter picks up ignition interference and the readings will be all over the place. usxe an analouge insted, only really looking for about 0.5 volt accuracy anyway.

For reference, here's an excerpt from the 1982 KZ1100B2 GPZ wiring diagram in KZr's FILEBASE.




If not already done, would assure integrity of the 3 bullet connectors (yellow wires), and connections through the 6-wire connector, especially the ground (black yellow).

Link to diagram if needed: www.kzrider.com/filebase/download/108-kz...ctrical/242-kz1100b2
(Opened with Adobe Acrobat)

Good Fortune!

Disconnect the block connector and get a ohm meter and probe all the three yellow wires, check the resistance between both wires, should be roughly equal on all three legs of the three phase stator.

this is the sort of fault i had on mine that would easily be misdiagnosed as a duff RR box:

www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/59810...ging-problems#671299

then a few months later the rotor mashed the stator wiring - I hadn't tampered with it and assumed it was still factory tight :ohmy:

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/599018-75...tor-goes-awol#682156

Thanks for the advice guys - I got it charging.

First, I put away my digital multimeter and dug out one of my Dad's analog ones from his TV repair shop.

My digital one showed the voltage going up/down as it 'tracked' but the old one held a rock steady 12.6 volts not running, and 12.3 volts running, as it powered the bike. Not charging at all.

I did the stator checks out of the manual, and it looked fine.

So I took it down as far as the fuel pump, so I could get at the connector to the rectifier, and I plugged in the new Electrosport rectifier I had bought - and still no charging.

So I got into my box of parts, where I had bought the whole fuel/pump fuel injection setup off another low-mileage GPz, took the rectifier off of it and plugged it into the harness, and Bingo - a nice steady 14 volts. I then looked at the wiring harness out of the new rectifier, and discovered only 5 wires going into the 6 pin harness - so I guess it's not for mu model and I'll have to return it.

For the time being, I put the rectifier under the right leg sidecover, and I'll fab up a nice bracket and keep it there. For the time being it's snug against the airbox with tie-wraps. The next time I have to pull the tank, and get down below the fuel pump I'll move it to the correct spot.

Glad you sorted it, this 5/6 wire RR wiring isn't a big deal: the 5 wires are 3 yellow form the 3 phase stator, a ground and a battery +ve.

The 6 th wire detects a volt drop at the ignition switch rather than the battery (although I think it makes little difference as volt drop will be a function of the load on the system anyway. )