$12.99 new regulator. How long will it last? #1

maybe you missed it, but see my reply in your honda reg-rec topic.

In my case it was over taxing the alternator, sending it to ground and not charging the battery. I could hear it. I had the old one as a spare, put it in and rode home. I am still using it. I'll cough up the $100 or so to NOT have this problem again. :dry:
Steve

Is there a link to the cheap regulator in question?

What makes you think the original is bad? Going by all the posts it seems your 1980ST doesn't have one working part on it? Not trying to be critical, but the regulator is a pretty good part, doesn't fail often if ever on a ST. For sure if it isn't bad, don't replace just to feel better having a new part, old is better than cheap aftermarket.

RonKZ650 wrote: What makes you think the original is bad?.

Headlight brightness decreases at idle.
Maybe it is normal.

How it works (I think):
Generator doesn't charge below 1500 RPM.
When it happens, battery feeds headlight. Voltage of good battery is 12.6V, that is what headlight gets at idle.
Of course, 14.5V will be brigher than 12.6.
Brightness goes down about 15% at idle, that is it.
I will attach multitester to fuel tank, ride and watch voltage.

loudhvx wrote: Is there a link to the cheap regulator in question?

Search ebay KZ1000 regulator

RonKZ650 wrote: Going by all the posts it seems your 1980ST doesn't have one working part on it? .

That is not true!!! I have 2 brand new tires!!!

List of problems today:
accelerator pump gasket
petcock leaks
speedometer new bulbs are not bright
carbs need synchronizing
center stand installation
rear brake pads (possibly rear caliper rebuild)
pod filters replacement
carbs are empty next day (hard start)
wheels cleaning
Backfiring (exhaust gaskets??? jet replacement??)
carbs overflow hoses installation
carb holders vacuum leak????

Problems solved:
installed rotor, stator and cover from 81 (bigger)
carbs cleaning/adjustment
steering bearings
valve adjustment
hazard light flasher
headlight replaced
new tires/wheel bearings
paint
clutch switch cut off (intermittent starter)
left, right and ignition switches taken apart and cleaned
sport handle bar switched to original
fork fluid changed
bungee cord attached to rear brake lever to hold it up (I didn't find a part diagram for spring)

Oh yeah, those are great. They are known for lasting a long time, even though they are really cheap. I wish I had bought that one before I bought the factory version.