Stator or rotor

Hello agin everyone. How you all doing? I wanna get people's thoughts on my diagnosis. Bike seems to stubble, misfire, and lurch in operation. I changed the spark plugs. Right after I changed them I turned the bike on and my Lights went out as well as my starter was not working. In my frustration I hit my bike. Low and behold the lights go back on and the starter works. Now when ever I rev the bike she still starts to bog down until higher Rpms. Tested the battery(it's new). Sure enough its sitting at 13 volts. When I rev the bike the volts stay the same or go down. So this leads me to believe that the stator or alternator rotor is bad. Is their something im missing or am I on the right track here. Sorry for the round about post. Please and thank you.

Sounds like a bad connection somewhere.
Steve

Thank you for the speedy replie. I'll check the wiring diagram Tommorow. See if I can't track it down. For now it's redbull and resident evil.

Just a small update and question. Checked some connections( wiggled and pushed wires...the scientific method.) Other then some sputter right at the beginning it seemed fine. Right after the ride I did a voltage test. 13+ sitting. When revved to 4K it went to 14. However the voltage did not go up when revved higher and stayed between 13.80 to 14.7. Is this normal? Will check alternated connections tommorow.

14.7 is at the high end of normal, or maybe slightly above the high end of normal. The regulator is supposed to prevent it from going above that.

However, the fact that it is so high can mean you have a voltage loss somewhere else in the system. This could be the reason for the sputtering as well. So it's possible this higher voltage is just a another symptom of the real problem, which is bad or dirty connections.

Whatever you did to get the charging system working should be looked at closely. Look in that area for burned or blackened wires. Look for dirty connections. Don't put any grease on any connections.

Most often dirty connections can be found on the fuse holders, so look in the fuse box.

If it's not the wiring, the next most likely thing would be the regulator if it's the original.

But you should probably get the pdf manuals that are linked in my signature and check the charging system using the tests in the factory manual. (The clymer manual has the voltage levels wrong for 1-phases versus 3-phase systems.)

Thanks for the pdf links. Some of the fuse holders looked a little grimy. I'll have clean them up. Just have to go through the wiring one at a time I guess.

Sleepy202 wrote: Just have to go through the wiring one at a time I guess.

Yes you will, look for stuff like the attached pic :pinch: glad I looked around before ordering parts

I repaired a stator in 5 min., insulation of one wire was worn out and wire was grounded.

Your stator seems fine with that voltage.

Clean the ign switch as you go through the harness. Your lights and ign both run through it. Do your lights change in brightness if you gently wiggle the key in the "on" position?

I have a volt meter in my dash. I have a 2V drop when I hit the brakes then it goes back up again.
Steve

swest wrote: I have a volt meter in my dash. I have a 2V drop when I hit the brakes then it goes back up again.
Steve

www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-br...ew_email#writeReview

This will resolve that problem.

I have LED's except the tail light. The outage indicator stays on dim with a LED. Amazing what one bulb will do.
Steve