TOPIC:

So.. I was riding my bike all morning last friday. I came home, bike parked for 2 hrs..i went to go out again and it wouldnt start. Plugs have no spark. It turns over (more than the clicking of the starter).. But will not fire up.
What could have happened in 2 hrs of sitting??

I charged battery.. All lights are on when i turn into on position.

There is plenty of gas in the tank.

What gives?
I ordered a new ignition coil, hoping thats the solution.

You didn't test it first? Loose or bad connections.
Points?
Steve

Throwing money at it won't get it done. I like the saying in one of our member's Sig. "Chrome won't get you home."
Steve

Do you have a Multimeter? If so, these few tests should help you diagnose the problem..

1) Check your fuses in the fuse box. Make sure they are visibly OK, and if there is any burn marks or signs that it might be popped... check it with the DMM and make sure.

2) Then I would drop the tank and check your coil connections and ignition points connections. Make sure you inspect the entire length of the wire, feel it everywhere you can (look for dry and stiff wire).

3) Make sure you are getting fuel to the carbs. It could be that your petcock is not working correctly. Set it to prime and see if that helps.

4) Check your voltage at the ignition coil, when the ignition is on and make sure it reads at least 10.5 volts or higher) This should be the red and yellow striped wire for the positive, and any ground location or the second coil wire (I believe it is either green or black), will be the ground.

5) Check the resistance of the coil, It should read between 3 ohms and 4.5 ohms.

6) Check your spark plugs! Pull them out and read them, they may be fouled.. and if they are I would replace them with new ones.



Let me know if this helps and if you have any questions as to how to perform any of these tests.

- Spencer

I TRIED to test it.. I wasnt 100% successful.
Im very new to working on this thing.. I can change oil and plugs and other small things..but electrical is a world in which im not very confident.

I have read a lot of stuff online about a similar issue and a lot of the solutions were a new ignition coil. I have also looked through the manuals troubleshooting chapter. I figured i could use a new one regaurdless if thats the under laying problem.

I did check the points and all is seemingly well.

After i replace the coil i will check more connections. I did check the most obvious and visible ones.

Thanks for the help and keep it coming.. I just ask that you dont make me feel stupid for asking for the help.

.andrea.

dreblackx wrote: I ordered a new ignition coil, hoping thats the solution.

??? Did you test the coil; check the condition of the points and condenser; and test the ignition circuit for bad connections? It could be the coil, but it also could be a number of other things related to ignition. It is customary and usually more productive to diagnose a problem before deciding on a solution. Hopefully the new coil will fix it; if not I recommend you run some tests before buying additional parts. Ed

Thank you Spencer!!
I did change the plugs. They were black with a little crud.

Not a problem... I'd check your coil first like Ed said... It could save you some money... These older bikes with 35+ year old wiring harnesses, tend to give odd problems over time. It could be as simple as a wire that came loose. Like I said, try and do everything I was talking about, and that should help you identify the no spark problem.,, Let me know if you have any questions about what to do!
-Spencer

How old is the battery & what type of charger are you using? The bike needs a good battery, so you should test it.
I would charge it with a smart charger, then check it with a digital multimeter & do a high beam test.
If applicable, make sure the electrolyte levels are correct.

High beam test (engine off). Charge the battery w/ a good smart charger, then check it w/ a digital multimeter. It should read 12.6+ VDC. Turn the ignition switch to ON with high beam illuminated (engine off). The voltage should drop then slow or stop. 12.2 VDC would be good, but 11.85 VDC is okay. If it drops to 11.2 or so, the battery may need replacing. If it drops to around 10 VDC or less, the battery is shot. The voltages are the numbers I use --- there may be a more accurate chart on the internet (the care & feeding of your pet battery).

I would also check the Run / Stop switch, for corroded wires or connections
Pete

Spencer440 wrote: Do you have a Multimeter? If so, these few tests should help you diagnose the problem..

1) Check your fuses in the fuse box. Make sure they are visibly OK, and if there is any burn marks or signs that it might be popped... check it with the DMM and make sure.

2) Then I would drop the tank and check your coil connections and ignition points connections. Make sure you inspect the entire length of the wire, feel it everywhere you can (look for dry and stiff wire).

3) Make sure you are getting fuel to the carbs. It could be that your petcock is not working correctly. Set it to prime and see if that helps.

4) Check your voltage at the ignition coil, when the ignition is on and make sure it reads at least 10.5 volts or higher) This should be the red and yellow striped wire for the positive, and any ground location or the second coil wire (I believe it is either green or black), will be the ground.

5) Check the resistance of the coil, It should read between 3 ohms and 4.5 ohms.

6) Check your spark plugs! Pull them out and read them, they may be fouled.. and if they are I would replace them with new ones.



Let me know if this helps and if you have any questions as to how to perform any of these tests.

- Spencer

Should this be 10.5 volts at crank? I get at least that with the ignition switch on, but once I start cranking it drops to about 9. Having a similar problem with cranking but not starting, and it seems like weak spark.