10 amp Ignition fuse keeps blowing

So can anybody tell me which coils to buy? Dynatek Gray 2.2 ohm or Green 3 ohm? Copper core or suppression core wires? As an option, what about Accel coils & wires?

Don't our bikes with stock ignitions have a pretty weak spark? If a 3 ohm is recommended, why it over the 2.2? If I understand correctly what I've read about coils, doesn't a 2.2 deliver a fatter spark than a 3? And isn't a 3 ohm higher than what came stock on this engines and as such wouldn't it deliver an even weaker spark than than what it already has?

Ok, that's enough confusion for now. More later. LOL

BTW ... Z1 recommended their 3 ohm coil. I forgot to ask about wires.

Thanks for the help
Robert

Thanks anyway guys. Called Z1 and went ahead and ordered Dyna 3 ohm coils and copper wires. Plus a few other things they sell that I needed. Considering their an aftermarket parts dealer, I'd like to know if their parts are quality replacements?

Been having a hard time finding AGX 10 amp fuses. Looked in all the auto parts stores and all they have is a variety pack without a single 10 amp in the bunch. I also tried the 3 bike dealerships near me. One had 3 fuses so I bought all of um. Said they didn't know when they'd get more.
Searched the net and found some at several places but non of them are local. Then I happened across Grainger's web site. Bingo!!! They have the 10 amp but not the 30 amp main. I'm picking up ten on Wed. As for the 30's, I don't really need any right now. I'm just looking for spares. I did see some on O'Reilly's web site so I'm gonna see if they can order me some.

Note ... Before going to Grainger, call to make sure their in stock stock.

Ride safe and keep it shinny side up.
Robert

EDIT ... No go at O'Reilly's. 30's are on their website but don't have/can't get um. Decided to try NAPA and to my amazement they actually have some. :woohoo:
I know I could have ordered some on line but I'm more of an instant gratification kind if guy. LOL Now I/you know where to find um locally.

Well crap. New Dyna coils and wires did not fix my problem. Got the coils and wires installed and took it for a ride today. Thought all was good but after about 10-15 minutes (once warmed up good) it started running bad again. So far its not blowing fuses anymore but the running problem won't let it idle or cruise at low rpm. Seems to be rpm related. Above about 4000 rpm's it runs great. Below that while trying to cruise it just chugs or blubbers along with hardly any power. When coming to a stop it dies unless I keep revving it. Then if I turn it off and let it sit for a while it idles fine again. Try to ride it again once warmed up the problem comes back before I can get down the block and back.
I obviously need to find out what's causing this problem but not at the expense of just throwing parts at it. Anybody seen this before or know what might be causing it?

Thanks.
Robert

Go through all your connections. It would help if you had a volt gauge to watch. Another thing, I had a bad battery connection act like that. Check it too.
Steve

swest wrote: Go through all your connections. It would help if you had a volt gauge to watch. Another thing, I had a bad battery connection act like that. Check it too.
Steve

Will do. Again. Thanks. I checked all the connections when I was having the fuse problem. As for the battery ... connections are clean and tight on a new AGM battery.
So where would be the best place to wire a volt meter? Into the 10amp ignition circuit or the 30amp main?

Oh, one more thing ... the lights do not seem to be effected when it's running bad.
Acts like something in the ignition system is cutting out once it gets hot. But then it only takes a few minutes for it to cool enough to run right again. Then
Here's what it did today ... Start engine, let warm up, go for a ride. 10-15 minutes of riding it started running bad. Made it home. Let it sit for a few minutes and started it again. Ran fine at idle for 10 minutes. Did not duplicate the problem sitting still. However I know it surly would have had I tried to ride it again. ???

EDIT ... Have you ever seen a fuel issue act like that? I started the engine again and it was running bad like said above. Did the ole feel the pipes test to see if all cylinders were getting hot. No. Number 4 is not getting as hot like the other 3. Tested spark with an in line spark tester and showed good spark on number 4. As much as I dislike having to pull the carbs I may have a fuel issue. Still don't understand why it ran good for 10-15 min and then started bogging out. This isn't the first time its done this. Prior to deciding I needed to replace the coils I had the same issue with number 2. Again when feeling the pipes #2 wasn't getting as hot as the rest. Spark was good. That's when I/we decided I needed to replace the 34 yr old coils and wires anyway.
I'm wondering if it could be a fuel delivery issue? If it's not an electrical/ignition/spark issue, how or why else would it seem to be jumping around from first #2 and now #4 cylinder? Whats up with the vacuum activated petcock? Isn't it supposed to only deliver fuel when the engine is turning over/running? Being vacuum activated, I assume there's a diaphragm in it that opens allowing fuel to flow. To my knowledge it has never been replaced. Being 34 yrs old is it possible that at low rpm the diaphragm isn't able to open enough for fuel to be delivered? But, at higher rpm's it does open enough allowing the engine to run as it should? Just a theory. ??? Otherwise ... off with the carbs again. And the petcock for a rebuild.

No doubt I'm reaching for answers. Hopefully while doing so I'll stumble into the right one.

Thanks again.
Robert

I'm not convinced it is heat related either.
Sounds more like no fuel to me.... could be a bad fuel selector and low delivery to the bowls, or plugged fuel line(s)... and it might take 10-20 mins of actual street riding to deplete enough of the fuel in the bowls to do that.... if plugged or the fuel delivery through the selector is really not working right.

Could also be the opposite, too much fuel, flooding the cylinder? I would check your vacumm line from the petcock to carb for the prescense of fuel, shouldn't be any... Also check fuel line from peetcock, when on or reserve, fuel shouldn't flow unless bike is running...

Have you checked float levels with clear tube method? Too much fuel can also cause issues, as well as clogged jets....

Systematically eliminate issues starting at the tank and working your way through the petcock, fuel lines, carb jets and float levels... Take notes and let us know what changes as you test, and wwe can help you further...

You may have hit on it. Clamp or block off the vacuum line to the petcock and carb. Run it on prime to rule out that problem. The lights flickering when these symptoms appear is confusing. Do you have a in line filter? Crap in the float bowls could clog the pilots then clear when negative pressure is present. Also check the vents. Critters like to build nests in there. :ohmy: I think I started a thread on that last year.
Steve

swest wrote: You may have hit on it. Clamp or block off the vacuum line to the petcock and carb. Run it on prime to rule out that problem. The lights flickering when these symptoms appear is confusing. Do you have a in line filter? Crap in the float bowls could clog the pilots then clear when negative pressure is present. Also check the vents. Critters like to build nests in there. :ohmy: I think I started a thread on that last year.
Steve

I think you miss understood what i said about the lights. They do not seem to be effected when its running bad.
Yes, I have a new inline filter. But I'll put in another new one anyway. I'll try blocking off the vac line and running it on prime. Be nice if that's all it is. I could use an easy fix about now.

OK, I'm on board with it possibly being a fuel delivery or carb issue. However, that doesn't explain why it runs fine in the upper rpm ranges. I can tack along with the rpms up and it'll respond and pull great. Then as said before if I shift into a higher gear lowering the rpms it starts blubbering and not running right. And no, I'm not bogging/chugging the engine in too high of a gear.
When I've removed the gas tank I haven't seen any fuel come out the petcock vacuum line. But of course it doesn't have any vac being pulled on it then.

When you're in the high RPM range, the main jet circuit is kicking in. Low float bowl level or clogged pilot jets. Use a guitar string or a strand from a wire brush to clear them.
Steve