1977 KZ1000-LTD rectifier question

I bought a rectifier of an eBay site and they sent me a Rick'sMotorsport Model 10-306....the seller sounds like he knows what he's talking about and says it will plug into my system. The issue I have is everything I find on-line regarding the 1977 KZ1000 rectifier, shows a model 10-515, which is a universal model.

I'd like to be sure the Model 10-316 will work...my bike is torn apart and I have no battery (thanks to an unscrupulous shop owner) and cannot do any electrical testing.

Does anybody have any expertise in this area? Did the 1979 KZ1000 and the 1977 have the same voltage requirements?

The guy Jacked you for your battery? Yes the voltage is the same.
Steve

Do you mean regulator-and-rectifier combo? That might be the difference. Some models had separate rectifier and regulator, and later models tended to have them all in one unit. Make sure you have a regulator and rectifier, whether separately or in one unit.

Looks like the 77/78 B models had separate units and the 79 B model had a combo unit. You just have to know what you have, in order to know if you have everything you need.

You will also need to know if you need to connect the brown wire. If what you have is a regulator (and rectifier), and it has a brown wire, you will need to connect it to the brown wire on the bike.

As loudhvx stated, the 1977 has a different charging system than the 1979 so the parts in question are not compatible. Below is the diagram of the 1977 KZ1000 LTD charging system. Notice the rectifier and regulator are 2 separate units. I recommend you contact www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/index.html and ask if they have a unit that will work on your bike. They make outstanding products. Ed

You want the combo unit. Easy to hook up, less problems.
Steve

It's a lot worse than that! I spent nearly $700.00 getting my carbs completely rebuilt, which took 9 months via Wired George. In the meantime I tackled the valave adjustment and ended up have to pull my head twice and take it to a machine shop, the first time to remove a broken cam clamp bolt and the second to replace 5 valves. ( I really hate to admit that but I made a real dumb rooky maneuver!) Live and learn.

Any way after getting my bike all together, I took it to be fine tuned and in the meantime the guy gets evicted from his shop! Leaves my bike all torn down and missing $200.00 in parts too! I would have been better off just to keep on learning how to do everything myself.

Here's a photo of my bike when I took it to the shop, in running, very clean condition:

Here's how I found it after getting a hold of the landlord to see if my bike was even on the property:

I plan on taking the guy to small claims, but in the meantime I'm pretty screwed.

Thanks for the replies, guys. I am going to return the Model 10-306 and get the Model 10-515. I'll be able to wire it to my existing plugs on the regulator and the rectifier and remove the old rectifier assembly. At least that's what I think I need to do.

I'm also installing new coils. I've been fighting low spark for some time and nobody has been able to help me out locally. My bike only has around 10,000 miles on it and I'm the original owner...

That's a lot more than 200 in parts! Clean tanks with factory paint are $200-$300 alone, seat; $200, side covers $150-$200

Don't feel bad. I never allow anyone to hang out while I'm working on my bike or anything else. Once a long time ago this flake insisted on talking to me while I was putting my cams back in. He was pissing me off. At that time I didn't like hurting peoples feelings. Without thinking I pushed the start button. At the same time I realized I hadn't put on the idler sprocket between the cams. In an instant I bent four valves. This guy was still talking and when he saw me stand up and look at him, he knew I was going to hurt him. He took off. I don't give a flying FK what people think or feel while I'm working. It's not a party.
I've been working on all my vehicles for over 40 years. Yeah I sometimes make mistakes, they"re mine, I own them and don't have to play the blame game. That's a waste of time.
I've said it and I'll say it again, there's a certain satisfaction in knowing what's between my legs.
Good luck in small claims. First you have to win, then you have to collect. You'll need a judgement for that too.
I'd let it ride and move on.
Steve

swest wrote: there's a certain satisfaction in knowing what's between my legs.

:S :whistle:

I know what you meant but whoa did that just not sound right

You know that sign
Shop hours $65/HR
If you watch $85/HR
If you help $105/HR
If you worked on it first $200/HR
Something like that.
There is a reason shops won't allow the customer to furnish parts. Yeah they will charge a mark up but they also have a warranty to stand behind.
Steve

The SHINDENGEN SH-775 is a SERIES R/R and is far superior to those Chinese Rick's shunt R/R's. A series R/R protects your stator from frying, unlike shunt style R/R's. Vastly superior technology.

$66 + shipping from here... polarisparts123.com/razer-4-800-parts/
Look up 2011 Razor 800 R/R
P/N 4012941

The most cost-effective method of connection is to obtain the OEM Triumph link lead (designed for the 675 OEM retrofit kits) - part number T2500676 which is only about $10.

To hook it up you simply bypass your bikes harness. Feed stator wires directly into the R/R. Ground the R/R and then take the Power output from the R/R and feed it into your fuse box per normal.

I just put one of these units on my 750E. These units are a nobrainer if you value a reliable charging system.
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[img]http://www.triumphrat.net/attachments/twins-technical-talk/86666d1376943125-new-recommendation-for-alternative-r-r-replacement-upgrade-sh775.jpg/img] [img]http://www.triumphrat.net/memberalbums/data/837/FH012_adapter.jpg[/img]