Andrews coils for a stock Z1R...ballast resistors?

I have.a totally stock low mileage 1978 Z1R and bought some used Andrews coils for it I have some questions. What type and size of spark plug leads do I use? Can I use the stock silver connectors that attach to the plugs? Do I simply remove the stock coils and install the Andrews coils in their place and sttach the wires in the same way
Do I remove the ballast resistor? I

First thing first.... Why replacing original coils? If it's for performance....u won't notice a difference. If all working well I would just leave it alone.
And if the Andrew coils are 3ohm then it a direct fit.

I am replacing them because they are over 30 years old and my experience with 70's era jap coils is that they are just barely sting enough to get the job done and the weakest link on the KZ electrics. They are the green 3 ohm Andrews. I got them for $75 for the pair.

Some ignition coils have the same type connections as stock ones, others will need the "Ring" type, requiring a wire stripper, wire crimper, and the correct size(opening, and wire gauge) terminals,to make the new coils work.

American wire gauge terminals come in three colors:
RED, for 2-18 gauge wire
BLUE, for 16-14 gauge wire
YELLOW, for 12 to 10 gauge wire

American wire gauge is different from what people think, as 22 gauge may be larger in number, but is many times smaller in size than 10 gauge is.

I am going to try to use the original wires and spark plug connectors to leave it stock looking.

Tripleted wrote: I have.a totally stock low mileage 1978 Z1R and bought some used Andrews coils for it I have some questions. What type and size of spark plug leads do I use? Can I use the stock silver connectors that attach to the plugs? Do I simply remove the stock coils and install the Andrews coils in their place and sttach the wires in the same way
Do I remove the ballast resistor? I

Just make sure the new coils have the same resistance rating or slightly higher. You don't want to drop a 3 Ohm coil into a system designed for four Ohms but a 4 Ohm can go into a 3 Ohm system.

Tripleted wrote: I am going to try to use the original wires and spark plug connectors to leave it stock looking.

wow, keeping 30year old HT wire and caps, which you will need to crimp a connector and boot on the end of, but dumping the stock coils as you think they aren't up to the job. I'd need to get some new wires and caps,

Seems an odd way of doing it if you want to keep it original looking.

Not odd at all if you can't see the non stock coils under the tank and the wires and connectors are very visible on the spark plugs. How would you attempt to upgrade the marginal power coils and leave it stock looking? Interested in your response.

I'm not sure it is the coils are marginal, more the points ignition. I have both stock and dyna coils and ignition but for fast road use and pump gas compression I don't see much improvement over the factory transistorised ignition, other than they are nice quality and easily available new,

I'd get some black HT leads similar to stock, find some repro wire numbers or make them up, and either source some NOS original caps or find something acceptable.

My point being that if you are serious about upgrading what you think is a 'marginal' ignition system, the first point of call would be new HT wires and caps, next would be an electronic ignition system to replace the points, which might also involve changing the coils.

Even on an absolutely mint bike wiith low miles I think it unlikely that 30 year old HT wire and caps would have the same insulation resistance to new parts. Ohmeters tell you only the resistance, a 'megger' would 'drop test' the wire for insulation leakage. Aging leads and caps results in occasional misfiring.often unnoticeable until new parts are fitted then it starts on the button and runs so much smoother in my experience,

Can't find a source now, but IIRC even a perfectly tuned non EFI motor will misfire occasionally, but on a multi cylinder running fast it is virtually unoticable, this ratio of misfires per 1000 revolutions is what makes things feel smoother when new ignition components are fitted. If you only ride in dry weather you won't notice this 'leakage' so much from old plug wires.

Installed the Andrews coils and didn't notice a difference in starting or running. I took them out and used the stock coils and wired. What helped the starting was lowering the needle clip to the bottom. The bike was too lean at start up. Thanks for all the replies.

Try going one step up on the pilots and put the needle back in the middle. After that you can look for that "sweet" spot.
Steve