Replacing coils in my KZ650B2

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The instructions with the Dyna kit say to set the static timing with the magnet turned fully clockwise (full advance) and to check it against the advanced marks.

1. Does this photo of mine (without the Dyna installed) show the correct marks? Why are there two marks right next to each other? (The rotor/magnet part isn't in the photo.) I know I'm showing the timing marks for the 2 and 3 cylinders here.


2. Why do the static timing at full advance? It means having to hold the rotor with one hand, while trying to carefully nudge the Dyna plate ever so slightly to the correct position. Anyone know why they do it that way? Seems like setting the timing to the "F" mark, without any advance, would accomplish much the same thing, especially since Kawasaki's instructions on setting timing say to use the "F" mark when setting it statically, then using a timing light to get to set more precisely.

May use the F mark at idle rpm for Dyna-S, same as with points.
Or just static time (engine off) using the F mark, same as points.

May confirm advanced position by viewing with a timing light (engine running).

Best idle should be achieved when aligning the F mark at idle rpm.
Allow the advancer to perform as it's designed to do by affording correct ignition timing at higher rpm.

Good Fortune!

Ol' Blue rides again! Just finished static timing on the KZ-650 and she fired right up. Now for the timing light and general buttoning up. I can't thank you all enough for the help and encouragement.

Whenever you do an engine oil change, put a couple of drops of light oil(some riders use a light grease), on the moving parts of the mechanical ignition advancer. I've seen far too many, that get crudded and rusted up. If you think the coil mounting bolts are close, eliminate the star lock washer, and get some of the BLUE Loctite #242, it's removable with hand tools & resists vibration. The RED Loctites are mostly removable with about 300 F , so don't use them.

Thanks for the advice Mfolks.

My advancer was a little rusty but still seemed to work ok. I cleaned the part that stays behind when you remove the points and the old advancer cam and lubed it with Lubriplate. Works very smooth now.

I dealt with the close spacing by beveling the head of the bolt, and using a star washer instead of a split washer. I have nearly a quarter inch now, and I'm happy with that.

I found that setting the timing on my new Dyna ignition system at the advance marks (with the advancer cam held fully clockwise) got me about the same setting as setting it to the "F" marks with the cam in the regular position.

Whatever the case may be, setting the static timing enabled the bike to fire right up. :woohoo:

When I when to strobe it, I found there was no adjustment I could make, it was dead on already. My manual says it should be fully advanced by 3300 to 3400 RPM. I had my son rev up slowly to that speed while I was watching the strobe, and sure enough, the advance is working great.

Arrrg. New problem: After setting it all up and, and setting the tension on the cam chain, it has a chirpy squeek. I'm starting to think it's pinging.

Is it possible the timing changed after I loosened the tensioner and let the spring take up the slack, then torqued the locking bolt. Yes, I first turned the engine by hand so the corner of the timing widget was showing at the timing mark, just like the diagram in my manual. Yes, I turned the engine carefully by hand two full turns first.

I wasn't sure if it was pinging, or something I changed on the frame or something. Maybe the new coils are too big and don't nestle into the space under the tank anymore. It's certainly a sound I've never heard before.

It's really hard to pin down when the noise happens; I can't really hear it on the driveway at idle or moderate revs. Under load I can hear it but also when I let off the gas and let the engine slow me down a little. I think I even hear it with no throttle and the clutch pulled in, coasting down a hill. But that makes little sense.

With a timing light, at idle, the timing mark on the crankcase lines up with the "F" mark, or at least it did when I checked it, but that was before messing with the cam chain. At 3400, it lines up with the two hash marks to the right of the "F" mark, again, before trying to retension the chain.

I know I need to check the timing again, with a light, at idle and at 3400+ RPM. Any other ideas? Something I messed up when I adjusted the cam chain? Anything else?

P.S. I was going to go get a tank of premium gas, but I still have a fair amount of whatever was in there left. I've never used premium before, always regular unleaded gas.

Perhaps not the timing, or tensioner, or combustion related pinging.

If not already done, would inspect the drive chain for possible kinking, needing lube, or adjusting for proper slack.

Were new spark plug wires also installed? Old hard cracked worn-out plug wires can leak allowing high voltage to jump somewhere to ground, which can make tsh-tsh sounds.

Good Fortune!

I just did this today with my 1980 Kz1000LTD B4. My wires were the originals and I had discovered a crack in one of the coils, so it was time. Since I already had the factory electronic ignition all I needed was coils and wires. The wires I bought at the local parts store, 6' for less than 4 bucks, I looked at the dyna coils but opted to use coils from a 2003 ZZR1200 which are high output and compareable to the ohms needed for the KZ.. Had to add a hole for the coils to mount them on the frame shelf, electrically I removed the ballast resistor from the bikes wiring and plugged the coils into the factory wiring. I cut the ignition wires to length screwed them into the coils and into the NGK spark plug boots. Once completed I noticed the bike started a lot quicker, you barely hear the starter motor before it starts and the bike is a lot smoother running down the road. Not using the Dyna's saved me a bunch,, the wire was $4 and the coils I found online for $18 shipped, a fun and cheap experiment that turned out extremely well.

All new plug wires from Z-1 that I bought along with the coils and Dyna system.

Of course, I did tie them up loosely so they wouldn't drape across the top of the engine. I used nylon tie-wraps. I suppose it's possible the wires are squeeking against the bottom of the gas tank??

I too find the bike starts easier and runs more evenly, but I still have this troubling sound.