Starter Motor Help

Hi all,

So a few months ago I bought a KZ440 as a project. Unfortunately my Fazer has been taking up my time, but now I can start to work on the KZ. Before I start stripping and spend serious money on a paint job, I want to get the bike running - the only problem I'm aware of is the starter motor. I could bump the bike to confirm it works, but would rather get starter motor sorted before I spend a penny anywhere else.

So, starter motor - bike just gets one big click when I push the button. Release, press - click again. Battery is fine, even tried it with a jump start battery to no avail.

Just looking for what it is likely, any ideas?

I've seen starter motor repair kits on eBay - would one of these get it going again?

Thanks in advance

The click is most likely the points in your starter relay closing, or attempting to close.
You need to locate the relay ("Usually" under the left side cover) and jump across the two large posts on the relay. A screwdriver or pair of pliers should work. (It will most likely spark.) If the starter turns over, the relay is bad. If not, the starter needs to be rebuilt.
If you can provide a link to the kits you speak of, we can advise.

Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight. If the cables feel “Crunchy” when flexed, they may have corrosion inside the insulation, requiring replacement.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm

B. www.nationsautoelectric.com/Kawasaki.html

C. www.whitedogbikes.com/cat--Kawasaki-Star...-Starter-Motors.html

D. www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/starters.php

E. www.dbelectrical.com/

F. http://.www.nationsautoelectric.com/Kawasaki.html

10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

Wow, awesome advice.

So last night I pinched a multimeter from work. The manual says if when you press start, you get a click and the ohms goes from 1 down to pretty close to 0 then the problem is the starter and not the relay. That's what I got last night, so decided to open the starter cover to give it a tap.

While I was tapping it with a spanner I was getting tiny tiny moments of life, but something at least.

So I'm hopeful it just needs a rebuild/cleanup.

I've started hitting the case screws with penetrating fluid. Think I need an impact driver, and it's definitely on my todo list to replace those terrible crosshead screws with something a bit sturdier.

Will keep this thread updated with progress.

P.S. I think my bike is a H1:

This is the starter motor repair kit I've seen - would this have the parts required for mine too?

www.wemoto.com/bikes/kawasaki/z_440_c1/8...er_motor_repair_kit/

That has all the parts you need to rebuild the starter.

I believe that www.z1enterprises.com sells the Allen head(actually they are called Socket Head Cap Screws) Stainless Steel case screws. When installing them, put a little of the silver Anti-seize lubrication on the first few threads to prevent galling and seizing. Most auto parts stores sell a tube that will last a very long time:

www.amazon.com/Permatex-81343-Anti-Seize...t-Tube/dp/B0002UEOLO

Yeah, it was my intention to replace those daft crossheads - my impact driver should be here this week. I'll pull the starter to bits first before buying the kit.

hightower666 wrote: Yeah, it was my intention to replace those daft crossheads - my impact driver should be here this week. I'll pull the starter to bits first before buying the kit.

Replace them if you want, that's up to you for sure, but there's is nothing daft about them. The only thing daft is trying to loosen or tighten them with a Phillips screwdriver tip because they are not Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS). Phillips screw slots and drivers are intentionally designed to "cam out" at a given torque which aids in mass production. JIS slots have a little different shape, and JIS drivers do not cam out. As a result, they can be tightened up more than Phillips - but only when using a proper tool. Using a Phillips screwdriver tip on them is like using a nail file to cut down an oak tree. Here's how to convert a Phillips screwdriver tip to a JIS shape (see link below). It's very easy to do and if nothing else will help you remove the JIS screws without stripping the heads so you can replace them. If you plan to remove the ones that screw into the cylinder head (such as carb holders or tach drive) I strongly suggest you soak them with Kroil for a couple days to break the bond between the fastener and the aluminum head. No impact driver is needed. Ed

kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/532335-budget...ewdriver-tips#532335

Thanks 650. Excuse my ignorance - I used the term Philip's very broadly but I had a look at JIS and that is indeed the head I used to fit.

My impact arrived today, and they have been soaking in something called Plus Gas for the past week so hopefully they'll give up without too much effort now.

Well, I finally found a little more time to work on this. In the end I had to take a chisel and create a new groove on two screws to be able to get my impact in - the screw are buggered but the cover is off at least.

My next problem is releasing the starter motor. I've taken the little sprocket and chain off the motor, and removed the 2 bolts holding the starter in place. The manual says to get a large screwdriver and prize the starter motor away from the case, but this did nothing but smash some of my case (nothing to worry about though). The manual says don't hit the spindle of the starter motor with a hammer as it may damage it.

So, how do I get my starter motor out - it seems like it doesn't want to budge.

Any ideas? Do I just need to persist trying to pry it or am I missing something