'76 kz750

Alright Patton, I checked resistance across the coil through the plug leads. I took of the plug boots and measured through the wires only and I took pictures of the setup and my reading. Hopefully that might show you something. Thanks for the help.

make sure your points are opening and closing
i had seen them stuck together already and it will never fire good luck

you said your motor cranks over but your just not getting spark? If you have voltage to your ignition points then its a timing issue and or your grounding out at your points which may be other problems. If No voltage at points, your problem is else where I would think.I had this same problem when I bought the 79 750.

bonneman97se wrote: ... it looks like the green wire out of the regulator is attached to the generator through a resistor? is that correct???

No. I think what you are seeing as a resistor is actually the symbol for the field coil.

The 76 and 77 KZ750B1/B2 share a unique charging system among KZ's. I think they are the only ones to come equipped with a solid-state regulator controlling the ground side of the field coil.

They use an energized field coil to create the magnetic field. The amount of current through the field coil regulates the amount of current generated by the stator. That is how the voltage is regulated.

12v is applied to the field coil through the brown wire on the field coil. The green wire on the field coil is the ground side of the field coil. The regulator controls the current through the green wire in order to control the strength of the magnetism in the field coil, which affects the output of the stator.

The regulator gets 12v power from the brown wire on the regulator. It also uses this wire to sense what the battery voltage is at. The regulator is grounded through the black wire on the regulator. The regulator controls how much current flows through the green wire to ground.

No other KZ's use this system that I know of. Some other KZ' use a similar system, but use a mechanical regulator which controls the positive side of the field coil.

P21, I was thinking about checking the points and condenser, but i dont know where they are, i searched for a diy on changing them, but could only find references with them already removed from the engine. Could you point me in the right direction?

Schmeck, checking the points is my next step. The bike has been sitting for more than a year or two, so it is more than possible that the points are stuck.

Loudhvx, now that you state it like that it makes complete sense. I have been refering to all of your diagrams in another thread, and they have been 97% helpful. i understand the way you explained the field coil hookup, but on my bike (i will take a picture when i get home) which wire would i hook the green regulator wire to? There is the one connector with all three sides of the stator, and another connector with some other wiring that is cloth covered,is the wire i need on the engine side of that connector?

I just re-read that and know that it is hard to follow, but, with pictures i believe it will make sense.
Thanks again for all the help/info everyone is providing!

Your bike should be almost identical to mine. If it is then your points are in the right side circular cover while sitting on the bike. There should be one wire going to it which is the coils ground wire pretty much. When you find the goldish looking plate take a picture and post it. Would be easier to see what your dealing with . -Schmeck

The picture below was posted to me by Patton when I had problems.

Your plate has one point not two so ignore that . This picture is for reference only.

Alright, Thanks Schmeck! My advance plate will look the same minus a set of points and condenser. I will check here in an hour or so and ill post up some pics of what i find.

Took a couple of pics of the advance plate and the point are opening and closing very smoothly. With that being said, my next plan is to take two vw coils and wire them together (one per cylinder) I have some spare regular plug wires that I will be able to use, it will essentially be a wasted spark setup which is how the system works now, but it should at least work temporarily to get the engine running. Anyone see any issues with this idea?

Theres no telling if it will work or not . Its a stretch .

Heres some questions.
Do you have a good battery? Do you have voltage to the wire going to the points when ignition is on?whats the voltage?

Your points are not on the high point of the cam and should be closed. Rotate the motor and see if they ever close, I don't think they will, and they're supposed to.

Or just park the points on top of the high point on the points cam and set them.

If he turns his ignition on and sets the advancer to F he can test the points gap by turning the plate . If he turns the plate to the left all the way and slowly turns it to the right he should see the points spark . I do this everytime i set mine as a guarentee. No spark equals inaccurate point gap.