Simplified wiring diagram

I did a lot of research and found some information here and there. Before I start making my new wiring harness from scratch, Does anyone have a minimal wiring diagram for a kz750 twin 1979? Kick start only, no turn signals and running aftermarket switches. My harness has power distribution issues so Instead of testing this and that I will make my own harness and take out everything I do not need. This was long overdue and I should have done wiring first. Any minimal wiring diagrams are greatly appreciated! -Schmeck

wired a few of them, and its quit/the easiest if you start from scratch....
just note the charging system, but if im right due to the year yours have the good system

otherwise goggle simple wiring kz750

www.google.dk/search?q=kawasaki+kz750+si...ing.html%3B600%3B396

I found this picture . Its for an Ironhead 79 which yes is a different bike. It looks like it could work nicely. Only thing that concerns me is the Terminal block he put in. I have no idea what fuse size block I should get. I don't want to starve my system or burn it up. Keep in mind I have no battery, I am going to run a magneto Joe capacitor/charging unit.

This wiring diagram looks like it was drawn by Rube Goldberg....

In spite of that, it looks reasonably complete. There are a couple pieces that confuses me:

The starter relay part - the cable from the battery to the starter looks wrong. It should go through the relay.

I'm also not sure the 'acc' wiring is right. I suppose it depends on the internals of the key switch. I can't think of a time when you'd want all of that wiring for the accessory circuit and not want the ignition on - the tail (parking) light should be the only thing on the "acc" circuit in this diagram.

The brakes should also be on their own circuit and should be fused and hot all the time. Also, the front brake should be wired in here somewhere and on the same circuit at the rear switch (in parallel).

Yeah this picture was just a rough idea of what I could do. I asked Loudhvx if he could draw me up a good sketch of wiring for my bike. Im definently going to use the terminal block in the above picture as my fuse box. They are like 8 bucks at RadioShack! Pretty cheap on my note. Im actually pretty happy to finally get rid of this rats nest of a wiring harness on my bike. What a relief! : )

I finally have all the ignition and charging wired up .It is extremely nice to use light up switches with a capaciter. Kick it twice and when the switches light up you know the capaciter is charged and ready to fire . Now im just waiting on these dang spark plug caps to arrive Any minute now .

Thanks guys for all the helpful information, as I am looking to get rid of my rats nest too! It was pretty old and awful! But I do thank god that nothing ever went wrong with the 30 plus year of wire harness! Thanks again because this helps out a lot!!!

If anyone is interested and has a kick start bike, try the magneto joe battery eliminator capacitor. Starts first kick every time and no battery maintenance ! Be warned tho I think it's only for perminent magneto bikes. I could be wrong.

Schmeck wrote: If anyone is interested and has a kick start bike, try the magneto joe battery eliminator capacitor. Starts first kick every time and no battery maintenance ! Be warned tho I think it's only for perminent magneto bikes. I could be wrong.

That is correct, but it's for bikes with permanent-magnet alternators (most, but not all KZ's use permanent magnets).

Magnetos are a slightly different thing, but also use permanent magnets. They are special charging devices timed specifically for ignitions. Whereas alternators are just a general purpose charging device.

Sometimes a magneto ignition will also have a general purpose charging function for lighting etc. In that case, it can also sometimes be used with a capacitor to replace a battery, but not always. Sometimes they still need a battery for the lights because the magneto output may be too weak at idle.

You are definently right which is why i need to figure out if my bike has enough juice to run a bright headlight and taillight. You make some good points though loudhvx , thanks : )

I'm not sure if you know this, but head lights act like a dead short when they are not turned on. Because of this, you have to have a switch, or some other means to turn off the headlight while trying to start the bike without a battery. Without the battery (and with a capacitor), the headlights will drain all of the power while kickstarting.

You start the bike with all accessories off, ignition and charging system only. Then after the bike starts, you rev it slightly, and then turn on the lights. The momentum of the engine will keep it turning long enough for the bulbs to heat up and start putting out light. Then they won't use as much current so the ignition will start firing again.

I use a relay system that automatically turns the lights off if the motor stops. Then I use the starter button to trigger the lights to turn on after the bike is running.

Another thing you must do if your regulator has a small brown wire is tie that brown wire directly to the output of the regulator/rectifier unit. Normally that brown wire (if it exists) is on the switched side of the battery. But if you keep the bike wired like that, and you turn off the ignition, and coast the bike in gear, ther will be no regulation andyou can drive a very high voltage into the capacitor, which can damage it.

Tying the brown wire to the output wire will ensure the regulator is always functioning whenever there is power.

no brown wire. 2 yellow one black and one white . The white wire is hot from regulator to the capacitor which I have a 30 amp inline fuse to prevent to much power . My two switches are blue led so that when the bike is running or has power flowing the blue lights turn on . I have the headlight and brake on a second accessory switch that i can turn off to start the bike .