78 KZ1000 rectifier wires

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22 Dec 2013 08:59 #616127 by HAFROD
78 KZ1000 rectifier wires was created by HAFROD
Guys, where does this black wire go? It is coming directly out of the rectifier. It is cut so I don't know where to connect it. I looked in the diagrams but its not there. I'm assuming its a chassis or battery ground but don't want to fry all my expensive electric components.

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Two 1983 GPz 305's, 1984 GPz550, 1980 KZ550A, 1978 KZ1000A2A

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22 Dec 2013 09:32 - 22 Dec 2013 09:37 #616128 by Dr. Gamma
Replied by Dr. Gamma on topic 78 KZ1000 rectifier wires
If I remember right, the black wire (ground) goes to the negative terminal of battery. It should have a brass eyelet on the end of it.

The original setup had the black wire routed through the big white connector along with the three yellow wires. But corrosion got on the pin connectors, no more ground, no more rectifier.

That should be the replacement rectifier you have with the ground wire that goes to negative terminal of battery. The replacement rectifiers were fast moving items in the parts department back in the day!!! That part number used to be 21061-1002 back in the early 80's.

While you are in there I would highly recommend that you clean all of the pin connectors in all of those connectors on that panel.

1972 H2 750 Cafe Racer built in 1974.
1976 KH400 Production Road Racer.
1979 Kz1000 MK. II Old AMA/WERA Superbike.
1986 RG500G 2 stroke terror.
1986 GSXR750RG The one with the clutch that rattles!

Up in the hills near Prescott, Az.
Last edit: 22 Dec 2013 09:37 by Dr. Gamma. Reason: added more stuff!!!
The following user(s) said Thank You: HAFROD

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22 Dec 2013 09:49 #616129 by HAFROD
Replied by HAFROD on topic 78 KZ1000 rectifier wires
Thank you. I got a new harness to replace those. Its in the pic just to the right of the batt box

Two 1983 GPz 305's, 1984 GPz550, 1980 KZ550A, 1978 KZ1000A2A

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22 Dec 2013 10:25 #616131 by dkoz
Replied by dkoz on topic 78 KZ1000 rectifier wires
Yes that's a ground bud..

1978 LTD B2 smashed
1978 Z1R D1
1978 A2
Attachments:

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22 Dec 2013 10:27 #616132 by dkoz
Replied by dkoz on topic 78 KZ1000 rectifier wires
Run to batterie

1978 LTD B2 smashed
1978 Z1R D1
1978 A2

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22 Dec 2013 11:17 #616134 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic 78 KZ1000 rectifier wires
Do this for reliable electrical operation:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit DN5 electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website, and can be purchased at most electronic supply stores.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit DN5 and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal response and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.


The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. If you discover the soldered connections at the switches are crumbling, I’ve got a repair procedure for this, just ask.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit DN5 and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........


“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “
From a forum member at www.kzrider.com


Re: Cleaning the many and various Motorcycle electrics.
I used the De-oxit D-5 spray on all the electrical connections of my 78 Kz1000 that had sat for twenty years .

When I parked the bike in 92 I was starting to have troubles with some of the electrical system, but after pulling everything apart and giving it a spray , reconnecting the connectors and working them back and forth a few times, then gave them another shot of spray to wash them off before the final reconnection.

Everything still works perfectly and has for over 7000 miles this year.

I am extremely happy with the results , a lot of the connectors were green when I started and after the cleaning they looked new ( shiny gold )

I found the Deoxit D-series, D-5 spray in a 4 oz can at a big electronics store called Frys in Illinois, don't get the small cans at Radio Shack , they are different and meant for computer type stuff.

store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f

Trust MFolks , the guy's a true rocket scientist and really knows what he's talking about.
JD

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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22 Dec 2013 14:42 #616151 by HAFROD
Replied by HAFROD on topic 78 KZ1000 rectifier wires
I'm thinking about going ahead and replacing the rectifier. The ones I found have a finned aluminum body. Will these work the same?

Two 1983 GPz 305's, 1984 GPz550, 1980 KZ550A, 1978 KZ1000A2A

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22 Dec 2013 18:10 #616184 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic 78 KZ1000 rectifier wires
Good information about upgrading the rectifier, from www.redlinecycle.com

There may be a blank page. but information is there:
www.redlinecycle.com/rectifiers.html

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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