Handlebar switch conduit

The conduit on my handlebar switch wiring was in poor shape, so I stripped it off. I'm trying to find a suitable replacement. I don't want to use the split plastic tubing like you find on most automotive wiring. I considered using heat shrink, but am having difficulties in finding a large enough diameter.

Any suggestions?

Spiral wrap? Heat shrink tubing is available in sizes that I have seen up to 4"! You need a torch to shrink it down... I cant believe you cant find a big enough diameter!

nitrokeeb wrote: The conduit on my handlebar switch wiring was in poor shape, so I stripped it off. I'm trying to find a suitable replacement. I don't want to use the split plastic tubing like you find on most automotive wiring. I considered using heat shrink, but am having difficulties in finding a large enough diameter.

Any suggestions?

Here is a kit from Grainger up to 3/4"

www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Heat-Shrink...300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

Why not run the wires inside the handlebars like a stock KZ650-C1? The only wire outside the bars is the one for the clutch lockout. Here's a pic of the underside of the bars. Ed

I should clarify that I could not find any locally. I was also wondering what other options were out there. One option I had considered was a wrap like this:


But I don't think it would be very good for sealing.

I am liking the internal wiring...

Should be pretty easy on a set of drag bars/superbike bars.

Something like this?

Click > www.economycycle.com/servlet/the-600/Mot...Wire-Loom-PVC/Detail

Google wire sheath.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote: Something like this?

Click > www.economycycle.com/servlet/the-600/Mot...Wire-Loom-PVC/Detail

Google wire sheath.

Good Fortune!

That looks just like stock, but is half the diameter I need. I searched "wire loom", "wire conduit", etc, but never thought to look for "wire sheath". I just bought a 90' roll of 3M 1/2" heat shrink on eBay. I think they had it priced wrong, as I got it for what other vendors were asking for about 4'.

I think I may try to run the wires internally, but still need to cover the wires from where they emerge from the handlebars to where they connect to the harness underneath the tank.

Here's some websites for the non sticky tape for when you have wires splitting away from the ones in the PVC tubing:

Electrical Wire Harness/Loom Tapes (Non Sticky Types)
www.pcsconnectors.com/harness_tape.aspx
www.deadnutson.com/catalog/item/2965331/6122491.htm
terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Default.aspx?CAT=TAPE110
www.nitto.com/product/datasheet/const/001/
www.tapebrothers.com
www.wiringharness.com
www.findtape.com/shop/product.aspx?id=32...&width=1436&height=0

Other possibilities --

www.cycleterminal.com/sleeve-tubing.html

www.economycycle.com/servlet/the-Bullet-...Wire-Loom/Categories


Good Fortune!

If you think about routing the wire bundle inside the handlebars, read this first:


Pulling Wire Bundles Inside Handlebars

Before running any wiring inside the bars, take time to see if any sharp "Burrs" are there, otherwise they will quickly strip any insulation away from the wire's conductors, resulting in an electrical short.

A Dremel tool with a small stone grinding bit will smooth most burrs away. If a Dremel is not available, a small round rat tail file works just as good.

Any splices should be "Staggered" to avoid too large of a diameter, trying to fit through small openings.

When preparing to pull the wire bundle through the bars, carefully taper the bundles end with masking tape as this makes for a better pulling situation.

I use aircraft 0.032" diameter safety wire secured to the wire bundle as a pulling medium, Nylon string or small diameter cord will work for this too.

Silicone spray or electricians pulling lubricant should be applied to the end of the wires to ease the operation. It's best to have a helper while doing this to avoid problems of possible pinched or damaged wires. Have your helper apply a steady pulling effort while you carefully feed the wire bundle into the handlebars.

After the job of pulling is done, get a multimeter, set it on the lowest ohm setting, open up the switch housings to access the wire ends and then see if a wire of two has shorted out.

Put one probe on the handlebar and the other on any soldered wire ends on the switches and see if the meter indicates continuity by either making a buzz(some meters have built in buzzers) or a display on the meter face.

An analog meter(the type with the needle indicator) will act similar (except no buzzer) by showing usually a full deflection(needle movement)if there is a short by again, checking with the lowest setting on the ohm scale of the meter.

Finding a short now is a whole lot better than when it's wired up & blowing fuses or possible stranding you on the road.....