Ignition just DEAD. HELP!!

Had a wire coming off the fuse box come apart at the bullet connector and had no power. It happened after having taken off the side covers. Must have pulled it apart. Maybe a similar situation happened to yours. But maybe it may have been barely on and the vibration finally wiggled it apart.

Thanks MF and Joe! Will check them out when I get home. It would be great to see light, ignition and the engine fire. AND, I will just want to kick myself if this turns out to be something that simple and I missed the Rolling Concours because I just didn't know this then! :pinch:

If you have a Sears nearby they have a very decent meter for around $20. Harbor Freight has the same one (rebranded): multimeter

I hope to attend next year, the bike should be finished by then. I need to find a right side cover in decent shape so I can get her painted and my new decals applied. They are a bit difficult to find in decent shape.
I could also use a new rear brake rotor as mine is out of tolerance and chewing up the brake pads.

Forrest wrote:

650ed wrote: The main fuse is in that fuse holder. Those are the only 3 fuses on the '1977 models. I would check to ensure both ends of the battery cables are tight. Ed

So the main fuse is the 20 Amp one? I removed the battery at my friends house and connected to my battery charger. It read strong and good. I reconnected the batter to the terminal cables. The same result very very weak on current then faded to zip/nada in seconds. I am sure the ends of the battery cables are tight on the battery. Do I read you correctly? I should check the other end of the batter cable? I will do so and start tracing with the aid of the electrical diagram. Thank you kind sir!

Yes, the 20 amp fuse is the main one; it is fed directly from the battery. Be sure to check the other ends of the battery cable, especially the ground (negative battery terminal) wire where it attaches to the engine. If you buy a meter get a "multi-meter" that in addition to measuring voltage measures resistance (ohms) as well as other things. You can use the resistance test function for a number of different tests that can't be performed using just a volt meter. Ed

On my KZ900 is was a bad connection in the starter switch. The solder joint just broke and the whole bike went dead. I took the switch apart and applied a little heat - good as new!

Copy this, and have it on hand for soldering joint repairs:


Repairing crumbled switch and light bulb socket soldering.

Some of the older Kawasaki's, and possibly the other brands of motorcycles may be experiencing crumbled or failed switch and light bulb factory soldering jobs. Here's a repair procedure:

Repairing Motorcycle Soldered Connections

When repairing soldered wires on motorcycle switches or light bulbs sockets, have the following on hand:

1. A 25 Watt soldering iron or one that the wattage can be adjusted.

2. Rosin core solder. I like using SN60 or SN63 0.031” diameter solder.

3. Rosin flux or soldering paste (Never use solder or soldering paste designed for plumbing work, as it contains an acid that will corrode the electrical joint, ruining it).

4. 91% rubbing Alcohol, or 70%. The lower percentage will clean up flux residue, but not as good as the higher percentage stuff. Acetone will clean soldered joints of excess flux too.

5. A cut down ½” paint brush, or acid brush for scrubbing the repaired solder joint.

6. Clean rags or paper towels

7. A damp sponge to keep the soldering iron tip clean.

8. Some “Solder Wick” a braided bare copper wire designed to collect heated excess solder, aiding in joint preperation, available at electronic supply stores.

9. Some wooden toothpicks.

10. Small Hemostats or clip on heatsinks.

A. Before soldering, “Tin” the soldering iron tip by plugging it in or turning the iron on, allowing it to get to operating temperature(2-3 minutes).

B. Unroll about 3” of solder from the roll of rosin core solder & then using a clean rag or paper towel moistened with Alcohol, wipe the unrolled solder, removing the finger print oils that will create a poor solder joint.

C. Apply a small amount of solder to the now heated soldering iron tip, wiping the excess off with the wet sponge or rag, keeping a thin layer of solder on the soldering iron.

D. The soldering iron is now ready for use, but before applying the heated tip to a wire, wipe the tip on the damp sponge or rag, this removes any oxidized solder and makes for a much better connection.

E. If the joint to be repaired is grey in color or appears “Crumbled”, apply some rosin soldering paste or flux to the joint with a small toothpick of screwdriver, and then apply the soldering iron tip for a few seconds.

G. The fluxed joint should clean up, allowing for a better connection. If no luck, use the solder wick to remove all traces of the old solder by apply in it between the soldering iron tip and the bad joint.

H. Hemostats and clip on heatsinks will be used to prevent the wire insulation from burning, overheating & pulling away from the connection.

I. Apply a small amount of flux to the joint to be repaired & then a very short duration of heated soldering iron tip & solder(like a few seconds or so).

J. Clean off the repaired joint with the brush & rubbing Alcohol, the newly repaired joint should appear clean and bright, almost as if it were polished, with no voids or holes.

Forrest wrote: ... I should check the other end of the batter cable?....

If not already done, would inspect the ground connection where the negative battery cable attaches to rear of the engine.

Assure that the cable terminal lug is in good condition and free of corrosion.
And that the area on the engine where the lug attaches is clean and free of paint, corrosion, etc. that might prevent a perfect ground connection.

Good Fortune!

Toolmaker, I did some more trouble shooting today. Fiddled with the kill switch. When flipping to the off position, I got a stronger light on my dash for neutral and oil pressure. I remember, hitting the kill switch pulling into the gas station the day of the Rolling Concours. I may have a loose or broken connection inside that unit. Thanks Toolmaker for your take on that. I will be rechecking all ends of both positive and negative battery leads. I checked the resistance on the lines of the Rectifier, thought that I had a problem with one of the connections/lines.

I will take apart the Right Control/Kill Switch Housing when I get home this evening to see if that is my gremlin source. Electrical issues are fun aren't they? :pinch:

I hate 'em

Forrest wrote: Toolmaker, I did some more trouble shooting today. Fiddled with the kill switch. When flipping to the off position, I got a stronger light on my dash for neutral and oil pressure. I remember, hitting the kill switch pulling into the gas station the day of the Rolling Concours. I may have a loose or broken connection inside that unit. Thanks Toolmaker for your take on that. I will be rechecking all ends of both positive and negative battery leads. I checked the resistance on the lines of the Rectifier, thought that I had a problem with one of the connections/lines.

I will take apart the Right Control/Kill Switch Housing when I get home this evening to see if that is my gremlin source. Electrical issues are fun aren't they? :pinch:

Forrest, you really need to use a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) to trace where you have power and what the voltage is, checking for voltage drop along the harness and switch connections. You want as little as possible drop in voltage across the system. If you have drop at a connection in the harness, it is do to resistance from a bad connection. This will make it heat up, and get worse, damaging the wiring.
You can use a Test Light to find where your missing the power to run the bike, but with the DVOM, you can be sure of your electrical condition.
Sorry you missed the event, but glad you made the Relay Rides without problems.

QNman wrote: Got it! The main fuse LOOKED good, but was not. Also replaced the battery, as one cell tested dead.

SHE'S ALIVE!!!! MWA HA HA HAAAAA!!!

Turns out, I had a similiar situation. No bad fuses BUT the battery that tested good did in fact have a bad cell. I replaced the battery and she is like a new bike on start up, fresh and strong! Remember All it can be something basic and fundamental even if the basics appear to check out.

Motor Head wrote:

Forrest wrote: Toolmaker, I did some more trouble shooting today. Fiddled with the kill switch. When flipping to the off position, I got a stronger light on my dash for neutral and oil pressure. I remember, hitting the kill switch pulling into the gas station the day of the Rolling Concours. I may have a loose or broken connection inside that unit. Thanks Toolmaker for your take on that. I will be rechecking all ends of both positive and negative battery leads. I checked the resistance on the lines of the Rectifier, thought that I had a problem with one of the connections/lines.

I will take apart the Right Control/Kill Switch Housing when I get home this evening to see if that is my gremlin source. Electrical issues are fun aren't they? :pinch:

Forrest, you really need to use a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) to trace where you have power and what the voltage is, checking for voltage drop along the harness and switch connections. You want as little as possible drop in voltage across the system. If you have drop at a connection in the harness, it is do to resistance from a bad connection. This will make it heat up, and get worse, damaging the wiring.
You can use a Test Light to find where your missing the power to run the bike, but with the DVOM, you can be sure of your electrical condition.
Sorry you missed the event, but glad you made the Relay Rides without problems.

Thanks Motor Head for the info. I tested the battery and as many other electrical lines/circuit/components as I could find along the battery to the starter/ignition. As I replied to QNman, it turned out to be something very fundamental, THE BATTERY! I tested each cell with a hydrometer and even tested with a Digital Volt meter and got acceptable readings. There must have been a bad cell in the battery. I paid extra and went Gel this time. The bike starts cranks strong and starts right up.

I also had a slow inconsistant turn signal or two. I decided to keep it practical and started with the bulbs. Lo & Behold! The left rear turn signal bulb was bad. The filament was intact but the base material that connects the filament to the base connector was aged and all crumbly. Yes, the bulbs are 36/37 years old, the originals! The bike was a true survivor when I found it! Once replaced with a new bulb the signal flashed like new. I even replaced all the front and rear turn signal bulbs even though 3 out of 4 were still working. Now to get the original headlight and tail light bulbs replaced! :blink: :lol: