Ignition just DEAD. HELP!!

For the past week or so, my turn signals have been acting wonky - flashing fast, slow, or not at all, intermittently. The hazards work, so I'm thinking its the flasher.

Well this past Saturday, I've ignored the signals because its nice out, and take the old girl out for a spin. I get to my destination with no issues (except the turn signals). I eat lunch, come out and turn the key - nothing. Dead as a doornail.

No worries - I'm on a hill. So I roll it down and she pop-starts right up. I'm thinking, get her home, buy a battery, end of problem.

About five miles towards home, the bike won't stay running. If I stop, even if I slip it in neutral, the engine just dies, and I have to pop start again.

Finally, it gets to a point where the throttle isn't responding well, so I pull off into the first business I come to, shut her down, and call a friend with a trailer.

I get home, and pull the battery. The local chain says the battery is fine, it just needs a charge, so I take it home and put it on the tender overnight.

Today, I have 13.0V at the battery, so I get my multimeter ready to test the charging system, turn the key and - nothing. No dash lights, no headlights, nothing - like the battery isn't even there.

I tested the rectifier, and it seems OK (I think... the manual is a little fuzzy on what is right and wrong). But I get NO power AT ALL at the dash.

I checked the main fuse - it's fine.

WTF? What do I check next?

Replace all of the glass tubed fuses, as they can look good, but have failed internally, Vibration and current surges cause them to die. AGX is the size you'll need. Then after the fuses are replaced, check the ground cable from the Negative(-) battery terminal, to the engine mounting bolt, for corrosion and tightness.

Look for signs of melted insulation around the fuse clips, and tightness of the fuses in the clips.
If you need a procedure for cleaning the electrical connectors, just ask...

Your original symptoms describe a failed charging system. Unfortunately, you cannot test it until it is running again. The rectifier/regulator test is very rudimentary and does not test its performance.
Your last symptoms describe an open somewhere in the electrical system, which MFolks has explained troubleshooting for. Basically, you have to start at the battery and go out from there. You need a wiring diagram, which is in your manual.
To summarize, sounds like you have multiple electrical issues now.

Got it! The main fuse LOOKED good, but was not. Also replaced the battery, as one cell tested dead.

SHE'S ALIVE!!!! MWA HA HA HAAAAA!!!

If in doubt, always replace the fuses with known good ones, otherwise, you'll be going in circles looking for the problem. I replace all my bike's fuses once a year & carry spares, just in case.

I have just experienced a similiar issue. I stopped for fuel on my way to the Cycle World Rolling Concours Event at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, an event part of the Moto GP Race Weekend. The ignition flashed for a second then went out. I had no electrics, no sign/hint of eletricity. I first replaced the fuses, nothing. Also, seem to get a faint glow on the Oil and Neutral Light which comes on gradually then fades to no light at all in just a few seconds. I have three fuses in my KZ650 fuse box. I tested all fuses by replacing with new ones...nothing, no change. BTW, the fuse box is an aftermarket through Z1 Enterprises, still glass tube type. My battery is fully charged. Is the 20 amp fuse in the fuse box the "Main Fuse" or is there another location for a "Main Fuse" on these bikes? I did have my side covers and tail section repainted/striped just before leaving for the Indy Moto GP. I reconnected all tail section wiring with zero problems. I also cleaned the bike thoroughly. Bike ran great for 10 miles then shot craps once stopped for gas fill. I am stumped by this. :pinch:

This caused me to miss the Cycle World Rolling Concours at the Indianapolis Moto GP. I was 2 miles from the Speedway, stopped for gas when this problem occured. Funny thing is, I just completed the KZ Rider North American Relay Ride from Omaha, NE to Jackson, WY 2 weeks before with ZERO issues.

Any help here is appreciated.

The main fuse is in that fuse holder. Those are the only 3 fuses on the '1977 models. I would check to ensure both ends of the battery cables are tight. Ed

650ed wrote: The main fuse is in that fuse holder. Those are the only 3 fuses on the '1977 models. I would check to ensure both ends of the battery cables are tight. Ed

+1. And corrosion free.
Do you have a wiring diagram for the bike? If so, I would have it enlarged and just start tracing voltages from the battery on out.
Really sorry you missed the Concours, I have seen some pics and there were lots of nice bikes there.

Here's the KZ650-B1 wiring diagram in case you need it. Ed

diagrams.kz650.info/wiring/images/KZ650-B1.jpg

650ed wrote: The main fuse is in that fuse holder. Those are the only 3 fuses on the '1977 models. I would check to ensure both ends of the battery cables are tight. Ed

So the main fuse is the 20 Amp one? I removed the battery at my friends house and connected to my battery charger. It read strong and good. I reconnected the batter to the terminal cables. The same result very very weak on current then faded to zip/nada in seconds. I am sure the ends of the battery cables are tight on the battery. Do I read you correctly? I should check the other end of the batter cable? I will do so and start tracing with the aid of the electrical diagram. Thank you kind sir!

koolaid_kid wrote:

650ed wrote: The main fuse is in that fuse holder. Those are the only 3 fuses on the '1977 models. I would check to ensure both ends of the battery cables are tight. Ed

+1. And corrosion free.
Do you have a wiring diagram for the bike? If so, I would have it enlarged and just start tracing voltages from the battery on out.
Really sorry you missed the Concours, I have seen some pics and there were lots of nice bikes there.

I do have a wiring diagram plus Ed has just posted a link. Thanks to both of you for the tips. I will begin tracing from the battery. What kind of Volt meter should I pick up at the auto parts store? I do not own one. Looks like this is a great time to acquire said tool.

BTW, I missed the ride and rubbing elbows with Moto Luminaries. My hometown friend, Jim Acklin continued on and made the Rolling Concours on his 1976 Suzuki 185 twin cylinder two stroke. He got to spend a good deal of time with Mark Hoyer and Peter Egan. Later, I met with Mark Hoyer and showed him a photo of the bike that could, shoulda, have been there. I will be back next year for sure. AND, our very own Les Holt took the I believe the Street Special category. Congrats to him! Look for details soon on the Cycle World website.

Kool-Aid, You Need to bring your bike next year! It would be a great addition to the Rolling Concours.

See if your battery cables are "Crunchy" when flexed, if so, they have internal corrosion, limiting the amount of current that can flow.