TPS, how to adjust ??

I have a -83, GPz 1100 with original DFI and Marving 4 in 1.
The motor is running to rich, with coal black spark plugs ( BR 8 ES )
It wont rev more than 7500 rpm and is "slowing" down when passing 6000. :blush:
Should have been opposite, "eksplode" when passing 6000 rpm.

I have tested input signals from engine temp sensor, air temp sensor and TPS.
All sensors are ok and gives right values.
Throttlebodies are calibratet, too.

The only way og adjusting mixture is by turning the TPS, and the big qeustion is:
HOW DO I NOW WHEN IT`s PERFECT ??

Instument ? Using my ears ? Or take the bike to a workshop ?

Jompa wrote: ... BR 8 ES ....

Would replace with non-R NGKB8ES plugs, and test run for effect.

Good Fortune!

Check the return fuel line in the bottom right side of the gas tank, if it's stuck, the engine will run rich.

Also read this:

ADJUSTING A TPS BY EAR

How to fine tune TPS on GPZ1100 B2
I think I found it... For everyone here Thanks guys you're great..

Here is a copy:
"I don't know the condition of your bike/engine, but setting the idle mixture with this tool would take not account for engine wear and general wear in all the injection components. Therefore the chances of the volt setting from the book being correct for your bike are very slim. Although you say standard now if you remove the air filter or change the exhaust this will change the idle mixture setting and the tool would become redundant from that point on.


If you try the "By Ear" method then set it a little on the rich side I.E. not with the engine revving as high (the engine will increase in revs naturally the closer you are to the 14-1 ratio. However 13-1 I have found to be more forgiving when changing from hot to cold and stopping in a hurry the bike will tend not to die on you at traffic lights.

So quick rundown on adjusting it “By Ear”



1. Start the engine and get it warm (not red hot).
2. Adjust throttle idle to 1400-1500 rpm.
3. Remove little plastic cover.
4. Loosen the two screws until the TPS can be rotated.
5. Rotate the TPS clockwise a little to begin. Adjust the idle speed so it's about 1100 rpm, (This should richen it up and the engine revs should fall a bit, don’t let it stall)
6. Adjust the TPS back anticlockwise until engine picks up and revs higher.
7. Stop at max revs, you can hear/see on the rev gauge.
8. Now very carefully adjust the TPS back clockwise to richen the mixture. The engine revs should drop a little. But the engine idle is stable.
9. Tighten the two screws; it's normal for the TPS to move as you do this so you will need to listen for an increase in revs or a decrease in revs. You will therefore need to set the TPS further anticlockwise or clockwise so as you tighten the screws the TPS is moved into the correct position. (You would have to do the same thing if you were to use the K tool to get the right volts)
10. Adjust the idle to 1100-1200 and refit the plastic cover.

You may need to try this a few times as by now the engine could be too hot. But once you have practiced it then it becomes very easy. Just like adjusting a mixture screw on a carb. Good luck and sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs. Oh, the movements you need to get it right are very very small, so be patient. Enjoy.

Kawasaki Fuel Injection Sensor Specs

Here's from my 1982 GPz1100 B2 factory shop manual:

Air temperature sensor spec(probably the one on the air filter housing, or next to it).

Meter at ohms X 1K ohms ( I use ohms X 2K as it works on my meter). Disconnect the wiring from the harness, one meter probe to one of the connector pins, the other on the last pin.

Should read 2.0K ohms to 3.0 K ohms at 68 F, if your meter won't read this, try the 20K ohm setting.

A footnote says this reading is true when sensor temperature is 20C (68F), 4.7 K ohms to 7.6 K ohms when 0 C (32 F) and 1.4 K ohms to 2.2 K ohms when 30 C (86 F).

Engine temperature sensor spec:
Again, meter to 2K ohm settings, one meter lead to the push on terminal (remove the wire as it may give a false reading) and the other to a chassis ground(any Black with Yellow stripe wire is part of the ground circuit).

The readings will be the same as the air temperature sensor.

The TPS has an electrical connector, only the first three(3) contacts are used, counting from left to right as you face it.

From my factory shop manual I'm making it easier to get the readings, by using shortcuts).




1. Ignition switch off.

2. Remove the small SS clip holding the cable to the TPS.

3. Using a multimeter set on ohms, range of 2K.

4. Measure between the first electrical contact on the left and the third to the right.

5. It should read between 3.3K ohms to 6.8K ohms.

The next test will cover the range between idle and full throttle:

1. Set the meter's probes on the left contact and the one next to it, as this is the idle position check.

2. Readings should be between 2.1K ohms to 4.2 K ohms

Full throttle check:

1. Same electrical contacts used.

2. With the throttle wide open, readings should be between 0.35 K ohms to 0.71 K ohms, see if the resistance changes smoothly, with no fluctuations or wide variations as the throttle is closed down to the idle position.

3. If there are variations, try cleaning the TPS with the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner/preservative. Open and close it with the throttle while spraying the cleaner up inside.

4. www.deoxit.com is the website for the electrical contact cleaner/preservative. It can be purchased at Radio Shack Stores and other electronic supply places.

Here's information about the main/pump relay, and where to buy one:
www.autopartsnetwork.com/fuel-injection-...elay-bosch/avfzQCsTe