TOPIC:

I'm moving into this forum, as described in this previous post. No longer a carb issue, but possibly a timing issue.

www.kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/58939...cing-rpms-after-warm


When check the point gaps, neither points are opening as I turn the engine.

Is the 1/4 point on the left, and the 2/3 on the right?

Also, my condensers are located outside the cover, underneath. Does that seem normal?

the point set on right side has no rub block like the one on left?
some thing dont look right
them wires running out side to condenser is the cover slotted for them wires?

No, the cover is not slotted for the wiring to the condensers, but the housing is.

What is a 'rub block'?

got off of web

here is rub blocks

do you see what i am talking about now?

yea, the plate definitely looks different with the condensers mounted on the outside of my housing.

The right side has a rub block, it was just the angle of the picture.

It doesn't seem as though either of my point sets are opening?!


1/4 is on the left and 2/3 is on the right?

alittle info
kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/243921-19...s-for-ignition-setup

Thanks for the link.

So if I'm on the 'F' mark for 1/4, then the left point should have a gap of ~.3-.4mm, and the right point should be closed?

And then the opposite for the 'F' mark on 2/3 of course?

Here's how to set the points using the static method for the KZ650. I believe you will find it holds true for your bike as well. Ed

The manual has several pages of instructions, pictures, etc. on how to set the timing using the static method plus timing light, plus dwell meter. I can give you a fairly easy way that will get you in a pretty close ballpark without a timing light or dwell meter, but you will need a 0.35 mm feeler gauge and a multi-meter or other device to test continuity. To be very precise, the timing light and dwell meter will be needed.

Remove the points cover on the right side of engine. Under it you will see 2 sets of points. The set on the left fires cylinders 1 & 4; the set on the right fires 2 & 3. When replacing points observe carefully how the little bits and pieces are arranged where the wires attach. Some of those pieces are actually insulators and if you leave any of them out or put them back in the wrong place the points will be grounded and won't work. Take a very close look at the contact surfaces of the points. If they are pitted you really should replace them. You can sand down pitted points, but they will quickly pit again. Replace one set of points at a time so you can look at the other set in case you get the little bits confused.

Use a 17 mm wrench to turn the nut NEAR the end of the crankshaft clockwise while looking in the hole above that nut. (Do NOT use a wrench on the smaller bolt on the very end of the crankshaft to turn the engine.) Inside that hole you will see a vertical pointer cast into the casing. As you turn the 17 mm nut you will see a 1 & 4 and F and T roll by and then you'll see a 2 & 3 and F and T roll by. Each F and T has a line next to it.

Here's the method I use for static timing. I turn OFF the ignition. I disconnect the green wire near one coil and the black wire near the other coil. (This is not in the book, but it makes checking continuity much easier for me.) After installing the new points or cleaning up the old ones, turn the 17 mm nut while watching the points. When points set 1&4 are at their widest gap adjust them (by loosening the 2 screws that hold the points to the backplate) so the gap equals 0.35 mm. Turn the 17 mm nut clockwise through a full revolution again and double check this gap. Then repeat this for points set 3&4. Now set your meter to test continuity and clip one wire to the leaf spring on points set 1&4 and clip the other wire to ground. Turn the 17 mm nut clockwise until the 1&4 "F" mark aligns with the pointer mentioned above. You want the continuity across point set 1&4 to just break when the F mark aligns with the pointer. The idea is that when the continuity just fails is when the points will fire their respective coil and cylinders. In order to adjust the point at which continuity fails you loosen the 3 screws that hold the backplate to the engine and slightly turn the backplate until the meter shows a break in continuity. Once you have the 1&4 set timed properly you can check the 2&3 set to make sure they break when the 2&3 F mark aligns with the pointer (they should or something is not right). Don't forget to plug in the green and black coil wires when you are done, and put a little grease on the rubbing block felt. Assuming you are using new points of the correct type this should enable you to get the timing very close. Trying this with old points may give poor results, especially if the points are pitted and/or the rubbing blocks are worn.

After you have set the gap (which in effect sets the dwell) and the timing using the method above you can use a dwell meter and timing light to fine tune dwell and timing. If you have followed the above procedure carefully, very little if any fine tuning will be needed.
Sorry this is so long. It's not as difficult as it sounds. Ed

Ed - great write up. Many thanks.

I have issues trying to set the gaps. I can't get 1/4 to open and 2/3 to close; and vice versa.

It seems in order for either point sets to open, they won't close completely.

Is this a sign of worn out points?

And now when I run the bike, it appears as though I'm only running on 2/3. I get no spark at 1/4 plugs anymore. Might I have cooked my coil?

Are you certain that those are the right points for that bike?
Something does not look right in there, either on the points or the base plate, if you look at your pic, you will see that thre is almost no gap between the two sets of points at the top, at the breaker end, to me it seems that they would foul each other on opening.
If you look at P21's second pic, you an clearly see the space between the two sets of points allowing free movement.
Also, i do not know if it is just not visible behind that washer/spacer, but there seems to be a distinct lack of rubbing block on those points.

I doubt you have burnt out your coil, if 1/4 is not opening, 1/4 will not fire, what happens is, that the condenser stores electrical charge, it is no more than an electrical reservoir.
While the points are closed, current is free to run into and charge up the condenser, as the points open, the circuit is broken and the charge inside the condenser is released to the coil, firing the spark plug, the points close and the cycle starts again.