'78 kz1000 point gap issue

  • 650ed
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Re: '78 kz1000 point gap issue

23 Jun 2013 17:13 - 23 Jun 2013 17:15
#593623
ironchique wrote: Ed - great write up. Many thanks.

I have issues trying to set the gaps. I can't get 1/4 to open and 2/3 to close; and vice versa.

It seems in order for either point sets to open, they won't close completely.

Is this a sign of worn out points?

And now when I run the bike, it appears as though I'm only running on 2/3. I get no spark at 1/4 plugs anymore. Might I have cooked my coil?

If you don't know the last time the points & condenser were replaced it is time for a new set. ;) I would replace them. Be sure to lube the rubbing block felt. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Last edit: 23 Jun 2013 17:15 by 650ed.

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  • ironchique
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Re: '78 kz1000 point gap issue

23 Jun 2013 17:19
#593624
I just bought the bike last month, so this is the first time really going through all the ignition stuff. I wasn't sure what was 'normal' or not.

I didn't seem right to me that the condensers were on the outside of the housing.

And there is no brush.

Should I just order a new contact plate with new points, etc..?

Or should I take the time and put in a new electronic ignition?

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  • roy-b-boy-b
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Re: '78 kz1000 point gap issue

23 Jun 2013 17:28
#593626
Go electronic. Set it right the first time and forget it. If You get a electronic ignition check the charging system as electronic ignition will possibly fail with a over charge,
1979 LTD Street Fighter.1977 KZ1000

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  • Flyboy
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Re: '78 kz1000 point gap issue

23 Jun 2013 17:33
#593628
Agreed, I would not muck about, just go electronic, Dyna S is excellent.
There is something otherworldy about experiencing the sound of an air cooled inline four redlined while heeled over at 35 degrees from horizontal, with the slipping rear tire violently trying to shake you from your perch atop the slewing beast..

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